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PLATE & VINE | SUMMER 2007
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Wine & Food Foundation Welcomes
New President – J. Buckner Hightower–by
Rebecca
Robinson
One
might
define
Buckner
Hightower
as
perhaps
the
quintessential
renaissance
man.
Businessman,
entrepreneur,
restauranteur,
and
visionary
who
is
well-read,
likes
to
cook
and
a man
who
knows
his
wine.
In
addition,
like
any
good
Foundation
President
worth
his
salt,
he
is
committed
to
and
passionate
about
excellence
in
wine
and
food... |
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A
Taste of Texas in the Big Apple
by
Rona Distenfeld
Ask
any two Texans where to find the best barbecue
and you’ll get an argument. Ask them
which state has the best barbecue and they’ll
agree: hands down, it’s right here
in the Lone Star State. Chili might be
our official state dish, but it’s
our barbecue that we hold dear to our hearts.... |
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2007
an Osmotic Odyssey
by
Drew Hendricks
Osmotic pressure is not
just fun to say, it also confusing. Reverse
osmosis is a new tool being used by winemakers
all over the world for many reasons. Clark
Smith is considered a pioneer in the field,
his company Vinovation is hated by many,
loved by some and...
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Member
Profile:
Jordan
Actkinson
by Tessa Cooper
Jordan
Actkinson considers himself one of the “luck
ones” since he has yet to find a
reason to leave Austin since his arrival
in 1992. Part of his motivation could have
been his mother’s comment when dropping...
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| Foundation
Welcomes New President – J.
Buckner Hightower |
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Wine
& Food Foundation Welcomes New President – J.
Buckner Hightower
by Rebecca
Robinson 
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One might define Buckner Hightower as perhaps the
quintessential renaissance man. Businessman, entrepreneur,
restauranteur, and visionary who is well-read,
likes to cook and a man who knows his wine. In
addition, like any good Foundation President worth
his salt, he is committed to and passionate about
excellence in wine and food.
Currently in the aeronautics and space industry
which takes him across the globe throughout
the year, Hightower’s background is a
fascinating mosaic of experience in fields
as varied as manufacturing, restaurants, real
estate development, international aerospace,
and music recording. In several of these industries
he has held leadership positions of Chief Executive
Officer and Chief Financial Officer.
His non-profit service is equally impressive.
Hightower is a member of the Board of Trustees
for the International Space University, located
in Strasbourg. His work for the Robert
Heinlein Prize Trust, which initiates prize
contests for advanced aerospace students, led
him to be inducted into The Order of Gagarin.
This is an honor bestowed by The Cosmonautics
Federation of Russia to persons who have accomplished
work to further aerospace education and exploration.
Hightower is one of only two Americans known
to hold this proud distinction.
Locally, Buckner has a long-established career
as a successful restauranteur, founding downtown
Texas hot-spots such as Malaga Wine Bar & Cafe,
Saba Blue Water Cafe, Saba Houston, Cedar Street
Courtyard, Moonshine Patio Bar & Grill
and Bertram’s.
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With a keen
marriage of business and artistry, Hightower
brings a unique perspective to the Foundation. “This
Foundation is the only one I know of that combines
the culinary and viticulture arts.” As
a result, the Foundation attracts many people
throughout the industry; chefs, vintners and
professionals in hospitality, sommeliers, restauranteurs,
educators, farmers, and students among many others.
Additionally, people from all backgrounds come
together to enjoy food, wine and each others’ company. “It’s
exciting and also rewarding to work with so many
talented and experienced people of diverse backgrounds.”
Hightower
views the Foundation as a statewide membership
organization and eventually, a clearinghouse
for all things wine and food related – a
valuable resource for consumers, students and
professionals.
“I want to use the momentum other Foundation
leaders and volunteers have built to expand our
programs and projects throughout the state. We
want to eventually serve as the primary resource
for wine and food in Texas. Each year we make
great strides in attracting industry professionals,
charitable leaders and wine and food celebrities.
With such a strong pool of talented people involved,
there’s no reason why the Foundation can’t
be a national presence for Texas wine and food.”
For what
started as a small, home-grown organization,
the Foundation has nearly crossed the million
dollar mark, garnered a whopping 500 members
in a short period of time, developed a mailing
list over 5,000 strong and most impressive, awarded
over a half- million dollars for education and
research in wine and food in the past five years.
When asked what he would like to communicate
to Foundation members he replied, “I believe
our success as a Foundation is rooted in our
membership. Our best ideas and strongest support
come from our members so I want to ask them to
keep in contact with us. How can we do what we
do, better? I want to ensure strong
avenues for feedback and communication.”
Buckner is joined by new Board members Howard
Kells, owner of Doña Emilia’s South
American Bar & Grill, and Brian Owens, former
television executive and former owner of the
Austin Wine Merchant. New Advisory Committee
members include: Aimee Olson, Texas Culinary
Academy; Ann Clark, kitchen design consultant
and cookbook author; Steve Hanes, Vintage IT
Systems; Jim Stone, Managing Director, Stone
Partners, Inc. and Kevin Blessing, Central Market.
Got an idea or feedback for the upcoming year? Email
Rebecca Robinson, Executive Director at Robinson@winefoodfoundation.org. |
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| A Taste of Texas in the Big Apple |
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A
Taste of Texas in the Big Apple
by Rona Distenfeld
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A
Taste of Texas in the Big Apple
Ask
any two Texans where to find the best barbecue
and you’ll get an argument. Ask them
which state has the best barbecue and they’ll
agree: hands down, it’s right here
in the Lone Star State. Chili might be
our official state dish, but it’s
our barbecue that we hold dear to our hearts.
For
all its variations, Texas barbecue is definitely
unique in taste, style, and experience.
Whether you favor spicy or mild sausage,
tender brisket, or ribs (pork or beef),
Texas has some of the best, and the Hill
Country boasts more than its share of places
that have earned fame and loyal fans.
At real Texas barbecue joints, it’s
all about the meat, usually served in butcher
paper with paper plates, plastic forks,
and a very limited selection of sides.
Now this tradition of taste and experience
has found its way north, all the way to
New York City.
A Childhood Dream Made Real
Entrepreneur Marc Glosserman is not from
Texas, and he never planned to own a restaurant.
However, his family on both sides was from
Texas, going back four generations, so
as a child Glosserman spent almost every
holiday in Lockhart. The tastes and smells
of Kreuz Market were part of that childhood.
“Barbecue, Blue Bell ice cream,
and Big Red soda were all part of my childhood,” Glosserman
recalls. “I had this vague idea about
someday opening a restaurant that would
offer all these things in the D.C. area,
where we lived, but it was never really
a plan.” Instead he started companies
in the telecommunications and health care
fields, lived and worked in London for
a while, then spent six months traveling
the world. That made him want to reconnect
with his roots, so he returned to the states.
During a visit to Lockhart for a cousin’s
wedding, Glosserman had a conversation
with Rick Schmidt, owner of Kreuz Market.
He knew he wanted to share his memories
and his roots with others.He was planning
to move to New York, and the idea of bringing
Texas barbecue to a foodie capital appealed
to him. He put together a business plan,
and three and half years later, the restaurant
is a reality.

Real Hill Country Barbecue at
26th and Broadway
Hill Country Barbecue & Market officially
opened in June, but before the renovations
were even complete the barbecue was reminding
visiting Texans of home. Dale Watson (official
Texas State Musician for 2007) and his
Lonestars played a private event there
May 18. “The guys all agreed that
was some of the best barbecue we’d
had anywhere,” says Don Pawlak, the
band’s pedal steel player.
To get that real Texas taste, Glosserman
hired Executive Chef Elizabeth Karmel and
Pitmaster Robbie Richter. Karmel had been
teaching a barbecue class at the Institute
for Culinary Education that was so popular
it was full a year out. Glosserman called
her, showed her his business plan, and
she was sold. Even though she’s from
North Carolina, she was compelled by Glosserman’s
desire to create a restaurant that honored
his roots as authentically as possible.
Soon, she decided to learn how they
do it in Texas.
“She liked that I was willing to
do what it takes to get it right,” says
Glosserman. “I wanted to do my best
take on Texas, and that meant focusing
on more than just the meat. I had to provide
the whole experience, right down to the
butcher paper.”
Meanwhile, Richter was garnering kudos
for his barbecue skills. A friend of a
friend of a friend, who had started the
Barbecue NYC event, told Glosserman about
Richter, who was heavily into the competitive
scene at the time. Barbecue was his calling,
and he was immediately interested in Glosserman’s
idea.
Having rounded up his crew and investors,
Glosserman took the next key step; he sent
his team to Central Texas to learn about
real barbecue. “They went to all
the great places,” says Glosserman. “Cooper’s
in Llano, Southside Market in Elgin, the
Salt Lick, Kreuz Market, everywhere. And
Robbie spent a week training with the folks
at Kreuz.” |

Real Taste
all the Way from Texas
Training the staff was just the first
part. To get that real Texas taste, Glosserman
had his smokers and the post oak wood that
fires them shipped all the way from Lockhart.
While he buys his top quality meat from
local purveyors (except for the sausage,
which comes from Kreuz), other menu items,
such as the Blue Bell ice cream and Big
Red Soda, are Texas imports.
The menu features all the classic barbecue
joint favorites--brisket, ribs (pork and
beef), and sausage. There are also Beer
Braised Cowboy Pinto Beans, green bean
casserole, cole slaw, potato salad, jalapeno
peppers, white bread, and cobbler to make
any Texan feel at home.
Then the menu goes a bit further, with
Elzabeth Karmel’s own chili recipe,
mac and cheese, shoepeg cornbread, Beer
Can Game Hen, Market Chicken and other
specialty goodies. Desserts include Ancho
Chile Cherry Brownies, PB&J Cupcakes,
and Bourbon Pecan Pie.
Over at the bar, Hill Country offers more
than a dozen beers, although for now only
Lone Star is from Texas. “We really
wanted to open with Shiner Bock,” says
Glosserman. “The problem was with
the distribution, so we’re just going
to have to wait for that and for Pearl’s
until we can get someone to distribute
them up here.”
The bar also offers Tito’s Handmade
Vodka, which is featured in a number of
specialty drinks. Try an 8-Layer Dip, a
Hill Country Cooler, or a Chili Cherry
Chocolate Martini and you’ll be drinking
Tito’s.
Wine?
Well, it is NYC.
Few, if any, barbecue joints in Texas
offer wine. But this is New York, and Glosserman
wanted to showcase all the great tastes
of Texas that he could. “I don’t
think many New Yorkers realize that Texas
even has a wine industry, even though it’s
the largest viticulture region in the U.S.,” says
Glosserman. “I wanted to introduce
that to New York, so our wine list features
Texas wines exclusively, except for sparkling
wines, which I had to get elsewhere.”
Working with local wine expert Wes Marshall,
Glosserman developed a list that includes
wines from Fall Creek, Becker, Texas Hills,
Flat Creek, Llano Estacado, and St. Genevieve.
He expects the list to grow over time to
include other Texas wineries.
Glosserman also hopes to offer other Texas
products. Pecans, pickles and preserves
are on his short list, and he is open to
ideas for other retail products.
Don’t
Forget to Dance
Texas music is as much a part of the culture
Glosserman wants to share as is the food.
He opened Hill Country with performances
by Heybale, a Continental Club fixture
in Austin, and he plans to have live music
two to three nights a week.
“I love the Austin music scene,” says
Glosserman. “Having Dale Watson play
here before we were even open was great.
I’m also a big fan of Rob Schneider
and the blues, so we plan to bring a mix
of Austin music here.”
The restaurant, which seats 250 people
on two floors, includes a stage in the
lower seating area. Picnic style tables
can be moved around to make room for dancing
on the concrete floor.
Authentic Texas food, drink, and music.
What more could NYC ask for?
When You Go:
Hill Country Barbecue & Market
30 West 26th Street
(between 6th Avenue and Broadway)
(212) 255-4544
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2007
an Osmotic Odyssey
by Drew Hendricks

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Osmotic pressure is not
just fun to say, it also confusing. Reverse
osmosis is a new tool being used by winemakers
all over the world for many reasons. Clark
Smith is considered a pioneer in the field,
his company Vinovation is hated by many,
loved by some and definitely on everyone’s
lips. Harkening back to High School science
classes is necessary to some for this exercise.
Osmosis is the movement of any solvent
through a semi-permeable membrane to equalize
the solution on either side. Imagine two
water solutions only separated by a semi-permeable
membrane. If common table salt is added
to one side, water will flow through the
membrane from the unaltered side to the
saline side to try to equalize the two
solutions. “Voila!” Osmotic
Pressure.
Reverse Osmosis occurs when pressure is
added to the saline solution, this pressure
forces clean water back through the membrane
and concentrates the other solution. This
technology was developed to desalinate
water aboard naval vessels. This standard
application works well until you start
applying this procedure to liquids with
dissolved molecules. Wine does not work
well with traditional reverse osmosis;
the molecules clog the pores of the membrane.
The solution is a cross-flow model. Wine
still under pressure flows across the membrane
at a high rate of speed preventing the
molecules from clogging the membrane.
At this point the wine has been divided
into two separate liquids, the alcohol
and water mixture, know as the permeate,
and the retentate. Now the permeate must
be distilled. In distillation the alcohol
and water are separated in order to complete
the alcohol adjustment. The water is added
back to retentate, when making de-alcoholized
wine you do not have to add the water from
the process back to the wine. However,
when you are adjusting the alcohol you
must, by law, add the water that was removed
with the alcohol back to the wine. Typically
producers will process about twenty-five
percent of a wine using reverse-osmosis
and then blend back to the desired alcohol
level.
Reverse osmosis is used to tackle four
major problems in winemaking: removing
water from grape must, removing alcohol
or volatile acidity from finished wine
and removing 4-ethylphenol (a component
associated with Brettanomyces). In climates
where rain is a problem at harvest, such
as Bordeaux, winemakers are using reverse
osmosis to remove water from must prior
to fermentation. The removal of 4-ethylphenol
is a relatively recent discovery being
used to reverse the negative effects of
Brettanomyces. |
Most people using this technology are
using it to remove excess alcohol after
primary fermentation. Two buzz-words in
the industry are responsible for the high
alcohol wine boom, “Hang-Time” and “Phenolic
Ripeness”. Phenolic ripeness refers
to flavor maturity and not sugar ripeness.
Hang time is a phrase meaning the act of
leaving grapes on the vine to ripen. Flavor
maturity and sugar ripeness are independent
of each other. The increase of sugar and
decrease of acids in grapes as they mature
are based completely on the local climate
where the grapes are grown. Conversely,
the components of flavor maturity; tannins,
aromatic complexity, flavor, and color
ripen according to time not climate. This
causes problems in both cool and warm climates.
Warm climates accumulate sugar quickly
so more “Hang Time” is required
for phenolic ripeness. During this long
hang time sugar continues to accumulate,
causing high alcohol levels.
Clark Smith and his company Vinovation
came along just in time for the hang-time
revolution. They were busy from the day
they opened and not just removing volatile
acidity and alcohol from cheap wine either,
they found many immediate clients in the
Napa Valley. When it comes to alcohol Smith
claims there is a “Sweet Spot” a
level of alcohol where it is perfectly
in balance with the fruit. Many would argue
that viticultural practices can help to
achieve this “sweet spot” in
a finished wine. Smith and the Vinovation
team have sweet spot tastings for all of
their clients. They prepare bench samples
of wines of varying alcohol levels, generally
in .1 degree increments. With the client
they taste through to determine which percentage
of alcohol is the “sweet spot”. Many
reports regarding “sweet spot” tastings
testify to Smiths’ claims that, for
example, alcohol at 13.25 can be hot and
accentuate bitter notes in a wine alcohol
at 13.15 can taste sweet and accentuate
the fruit.
No matter how many verbal opponents there
might be it appears that R.O. is here to
stay. With thousands of, mostly silent, clients,
Vinovation and other companies such as Conetech
are a huge success. Barring any neo-luddite,
reverse osmosis revolution it looks like
Smiths’ claims that just like any new
technology it will take a while for everyone
to grow accustom to will prove true. |
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| Rising to the Top, Member Profile: Jordan
Actkinson |
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Rising
to the Top, Member Profile: Jordan
Actkinson,
President/Owner Ambiente Wine Importing
Company
by Tessa Cooper
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Jordan Actkinson considers himself one of the lucky
ones, because he's managed to stay in Austin since
he first arrived in 1992. Part of his motivation
could have been his mother’s comment, when
she dropped him off for his first semester at U.T.
"I knew I was growing up when I left Austin," she
told her eighteen-year-old son. Whether
Jordan has grown up is yet to be determined,
but one thing is sure. He didn't have to leave
Austin. Instead, he has made a life for himself
here as owner of his own wine importing company.
Actkinson’s nose turned to wine when he
began delivering for Ambiente during his last
semester of undergraduate school. Since wholesalers
sample dozens of wines a month looking for brands
to carry, Jordan found himself tasting an array
of wines while at the same time developing a
more educated appreciation for their subtleties.
This turned out to be a perfect job for a twenty-one
year old college student who believed that pouring
out tasting wines was a “transgression
of incalculable magnitude.” This led to
his amassing a quite nice wine collection at
home. After only two weeks on the job, Actkinson
was asked to stay on with Ambiente after graduation.
Quickly rising through the ranks at Ambiente,
Actkinson accredits much of his success to the
then owner, Gayle Braecklein. “She gave
me a job and an enormous amount of responsibility
for a person of my age,” Actkinson says. “She
has been my mentor and like a big sister to me
as well. Both of those roles continue to this
day.”
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In 2000, encouraged
by Braecklein and also his future wife, Kim,
Jordan enrolled in the evening M.B.A. classes
at U.T. A year after completing his Masters',
he left Ambiente to travel and embark on a new
career as a consultant. That didn't last long;
a surprise was coming.
Soon after he
left Ambiente, Braecklein informed Jordan that
she was going to sell the business. He jumped
at the chance to buy it!
"This couldn’t have worked out
better," he says now, looking back. "It
was good for everyone involved. I have been
friends with many of the people that work at
Ambient for years, and we have a good time
working together.
“This is certainly an important part
of living the dream.”
Jordan says the best thing about Ambiente--and
the wine business in general--is the people,
and he's glad he had the courage to purchase
the company, because he can now continue Braecklein’s
tradition of providing a great place to work.
It all adds up to a genuine satisfaction in
having taken on the responsibility of owning
a business.
Back in the day Actkinson was a member of
an informal group of “Wine Turks” and
constantly found himself running into other
self proclaimed “wine geeks” all
over town. Being the small world Austin is,
Actkinson later found he had many common friends
on the advisory board of The Wine and Food
Foundation and became a member. He found The
Foundation shares his passion for the promotion
of wine as a positive part of culture and good
living--and who could argue with that.
In the industry Actkinson is frequently asked
his favorite drink of choice and like any true
connoisseur his answer is always “whatever
is appropriate.” Given the current temperatures
he can be found drinking a refreshing Rosé to
combat the summer heat.
Actkinson can occasionally be found outdoors,
hunting or fishing, maybe playing a round of
golf. He doesn't get to enjoy these activities
as much as he wishes he could, but he consoles
himself with the knowledge that his work with
Ambiente allows him more time for the “ultimate
leisure:” wine, food and his favorite
people.
As many can attest, we are glad that Jordan Actkinson
has refused to grow up and has chosen to call
Austin his home. We happily welcome him as a
new member to The Foundation.
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| Getting Back to Our Roots |
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Getting
Back to Our Roots
by Rebecca Robinson,
Photography by Stacy Sodolak
Reprinted courtesy
of Austin Monthly Home www.austinmonthly.com
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“EAT YOUR BEETS!” I
remember hearing this from my mother over and
over as a child and being apprehensive of the
shiny purple disks on my plate. Not alone in
my trauma of overcoming canned beets (the single
most popular canned vegetable during World War
II), I have found that many of us remain skittish
and unsure what to do with fresh beets.
Now as an adult with
a palate that extends beyond chicken fingers,
I can appreciate the beauty of beets and the
splash of vibrant color and flavor they add
to an otherwise ordinary meal. When you discover
just how easy it is to roast, grill or sauté them,
beets can become a delicious, nutritious staple
in your weekly meals.
Beets, sugar beets and garden beets originate
from the same family as Swiss chard. Chard is
the term commonly used that applies to the beet
leaf without a large, fleshy root. Beets have
the highest sugar content of any vegetable, and
sugar beets are processed for sugar. Beets have
been used throughout the centuries to cure everything
from tuberculosis and scurvy to toothaches, to
ward off mosquitoes and even to rouge the cheeks
of Russian women.
Originating in the Mediterranean, beets migrated
eastward in prehistoric times. One of the first
known writings about beet root occurred in the
1300s, found in English recipes. Beets as we
know them gained popularity after
the Christian era. Until then, they were mostly
used for medicinal purposes. The ancient Greeks
and Romans ate only the leaves, which were thought
to be the most nutritious part.
Once beets were introduced to the United States,
other varieties developed, such as the red beet,
the long red, the Bassano and the Flat Egyptian.
Today there are many different types and varieties,
with colors ranging from blackish purple to red,
bright green to white. When cut transversely,
some varieties display alternating light and
dark rings.
John Galindo, executive chef and owner of Cedar
Grove Steakhouse in Wimberley, provides two delicious
beet recipes to try this summer.
helpful hints for
prepping
Beets
are notorious for bleeding bright reddishpurple
juice, which makes them messy for clothing,
countertops and hands. To protect hands (and
clothing) from the red dye, wear plastic gloves
and an apron. If you do get stains, don’t
panic—they are not permanent and can
easily be removed with fabric stain remover.
To lessen this effect and help preserve flavor
and nutrients, cut off beet tops and leave about
one inch of the stem and the roots. Wash and
boil them whole (and unpeeled). Large beets can
take from 30 minutes to an hour to become tender.
Test doneness with a fork. When beets have cooled,
cut off the roots and the stem ends. The skins
should rub right off. The beets are ready to
be sliced, chopped or put into your favorite
recipe.

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nutrition
Beets turn up aces when it comes to nutrients.
They contain vitamin C, some B and iron. They
are an excellent source of fiber, potassium
and phosphorous. They are high in pytochemicals,
which fight disease, and folate, which aids
in preventing birth defects. Enjoy as many
servings as you like: a half-cup of canned
beets contains only 35 calories.
cooking methods
Beets are versatile, allowing for endless possibilities.
They can be cooked in almost every possible
way—pickled, sautéed, roasted,
grilled, steamed or broiled. However, before
cooking your beets, remember the greens! They
are edible, delicious and packed full of nutrients.
Try to consume them as soon as possible—they
do not keep. Clean and coarsely chop greens
and place in a small saucepan (like spinach
leaves, they cook down dramatically). Place
about 1⁄2 inch of water across the bottom
of the saucepan. Toss in some salt and the
juice of 1⁄2 a lemon. Cook the greens
uncovered over high heat until cooked down.
Raw Beets: Sprinkle raw beets on salads, slice
them alongside cucumbers with a
vinaigrette or serve grated beets as a side dish.
To prepare, wear your plastic gloves and apron.
Chop off the root and stem ends of the beets,
peel and coarsely grate them. Keep in mind when
you toss raw beets into a salad, the entire salad
will “blush,” which can have a beautiful
effect.
Roasting: Peel and cut off both root and stem
ends. Slice the beets, and drizzle with a tablespoon
or so of canola oil. Spread the beets on a roasting
pan and place in oven at 400 degrees for approximately
30 minutes or until fork-tender. For extra flavor,
add your favorite spices prior to roasting, such
as salt, oregano, thyme or dill.
Sautéing: Scrub beets and slice off the
stem and root ends. Peel them, and using a sturdy
knife, cut into slices about 1⁄2 inch thick,
then stack and dice. Sauté the pieces
in a skillet or wok with a small amount of water
and about a tablespoon of olive oil. To help
beets retain their color, add a small amount
of lemon juice or vinegar. Add water as needed
while stirring and feel free to throw in your
favorite spices. Stir until beets are tender.
Grilling: Brush quarter-inch slices with oil. Grill
over medium-high heat for 15 to 20 minutes or until
fork-tender. Flip as needed. An alternative method
is to wrap beets in foil and place them on the
perimeter of a medium-hot grill for 45 minutes
to an hour. See recipe to the right for a delicious
beet sauce to use on grilled meats.
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Beet & Crab Salad with Goat Cheese & Pistachio
Serves 8
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3 large red beets,
without greens
2 large golden beets, without greens
Canola oil
1⁄4 cup shallot, minced
2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
3⁄4 teaspoon salt
1⁄4 teaspoon cracked fresh black pepper
1⁄4 cup extra virgin olive oil
4 ounces Texas fresh goat cheese
8 ounces lump crabmeat
3 tablespoons shelled pistachios, chopped
1 ounce micro greens
- Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Scrub beets,
drizzle in canola oil and separately wrap red
and golden beets tightly in double layers of
foil. Roast until tender, about 2 hours.
- While beets are cooling, whisk together
shallot, white balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper
in small bowl, then add oil in a stream, whisking.
- When beets are cool enough to touch, slip
off and discard skins. Separately cut red and
golden beets into 1⁄4-inch dice and put
in separate bowls. Add 21⁄2 tablespoons
dressing to each bowl and toss to coat.
- Place PVC mold in center of plates. (Lightly
oil first.) Place 1⁄8 of red beets in
mold and pack down with fingertips.
- Break up 2 teaspoons goat cheese on top,
then 1⁄8 of golden beets, packing down.
Add
one ounce crab meat.
- Gently lift mold. Repeat 7 more times.
- Drizzle each plate with 1 teaspoon dressing
and scatter with some pistachios.
- Toss micro greens with remaining dressing
to coat and gently mound on top of beets. Serve
immediately.
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Red Pepper Beet Jus
Serves 8
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1 large red beet,
without greens
4 roasted red peppers
1⁄2 cup sweet red vermouth
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1. Boil beet until tender. Cool and peel.
2. Roast and peel peppers.
3. Combine all ingredients in blender and mix for
2 minutes on high.
4. Strain through cone strainer and store in plastic
squeeze bottle. Will hold for up to 3 days.
5. Serve with grilled meats such as seasoned pork
or lamb. |
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| The Degustateer gets ZAPPED! |
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The
Degustateer gets ZAPPED!
by Susan
Cashin
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At the Omni Hotel on May 8th,
along with many Austin wine lovers, I got ZAPPED!
Rolling into town on one of their annual select
city tours, the Zinfandel Advocates and Producers
road show was the equivalent of a major rock
festival á la wine! More than fifty producers
showered attendees with the pleasures Zinfandel
wines have to offer.
To be honest, I was never a fan of Zinfandel.
In my journey through the world of wines, I have
steered clear of it. My palate leans towards
classically styled wines that are into seduction
rather than abduction. And yet how could a wine
lover pass up the chance to have so many examples
of one wine’s different styles, producers
and winemakers (many hailing from top companies)
in one spot at one time? Not I!

I decided to get there early for the press and
industry tasting, with the idea of scouting out
the selection in a leisurely manner. Pulling
into the hotel parking garage at 1:45 p.m., I
quickly saw that this was going to be less a
trip to the symphony than a Rolling Stones concert
in Zilker Park. The garage was already full,
so I joined a line of others cruising for a spot. Out
of the elevators and into the lobby: there it
was. The place was packed! Everyone in the Austin
wine press and industry seemed present and tasting.
A very long line had formed as an excited crowd
waited to purchase tickets for the 5:00 p.m.
public tasting. Producers and winemakers ran
the gamut from scholarly looking and serious
to tattooed bikers. And there were plenty of
women winemakers, as is generally the case at
large wine tastings. It's always an eclectic
and colorful cavalcade, and today was no exception.
What was the deal? This was Zinfandel, the wine
I'd disparaged until recently as the Coca-Cola
of wines. I was prejudiced against Zins because
the ones I'd sampled in my sommelier studies
were too fruity, too alcoholic, sometimes too
green and stemmy. They were brash and bitter.
After a few tastes, my palate was shot for the
evening. I felt hammered by the wine, rather
than courted. So I closed my mind to Zins. With
so many great wines out there, why bother with
Zinfandels?
Then one day I was asked to help a friend, who
was moving, go through his wine cellar. He had
decided to downsize his collection by throwing
a moving party featuring a wine tasting from
his cellar. How sad to go through this collection
and discard wines that were so far past their
prime that some were dead!!
However, I noticed that he had several cases
of 1990 & 1991 Ridge Zinfandels from Geyserville
and Lytton Springs. I'd been to a small tasting
of Ridge wines at Mirabelle’s earlier in
the year, and there I'd met the gracious winemaker,
Paul Draper. Tasting his recently released Zinfandels,
I enjoyed and appreciated what his wines had
to offer. I liked their restrained style—but
I saw Draper’s wines as an anomaly. I still
thought Zinfandel came on too strong.
Even so, I took samples from my friend’s
cellar and opened them. Three of us were present:
cellar owner, a wine-knowledgeable friend and
I. We were all bowled over! There was a
classic beauty to these wines, especially the
Geyerserville. Paul Draper was right! This
wine had great potential to age. The Ridge wines
were the favorites of the evening, even beating
out a good Bordeaux.
I realized then that I had been judging all
Zinfandels in their youth. I'd never before tasted
a well-aged Zinfandel. This was new.
Funny how wine always comes around to being
analogous to life. With Zinfandel I was reminded
of my relationship with my husband. I am positive
that had I met him in his youth I would have
run the other way. A risk taker, daredevil, wanderer
without the foundation of wisdom and experience,
in his youth he would have been bad and dangerous
to know. But by the time I met him, maturity
had softened the brassy edges without diminishing
the sparkle.
That’s what I have discovered about Zinfandels.
You have to leave aside these young wines. Zinfandel
has taught me something new about wine. If a
wine tells me who it is, I should believe it!
After being ZAPPED I went on a binge researching
Zinfandel, and thus I discovered what has come
to be known as “America’s Grape.”
Zinfandel was originally thought to be the only
native example of vitis vinifera found
in North America. However, after investigation,
Zinfandel's parentage was traced back to the
eastern coast of the U.S., and linked to the
Primitivo grape brought over by Italian immigrants.
With migration to California in the mid-1800’s,
Zinfandel found its perfect home in the cool
climes of California’s coastal region.
However, the hunt for Zin’s true parentage
did not end there. DNA fingerprinting finally
pointed to Primitivo (and thus Zinfandel) Croatian
lineage, where the grape is known as Crljenak
Kastelanski. Even before California’s population
exploded with the gold rush in 1849, a grape-growing
boom was in full swing, with Zinfandel leading
the way in planted acreage.
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As a variety, Zinfandel is a prolific producer
and was even able to survive Prohibition, due
to the admiration of the grape by immigrant home
winemakers, who loved its robust, fruity, early
and easy drinking ability as well as the mutability
of the grape in the winemaking process. Zinfandel
possesses a chameleon-like character and can
be grown and vinified to produce a variety of
wine styles ranging from dry to syrupy sweet.
These styles reflect the cultural “melting
pot” of America. There was never a traditional
winemaking stance for this grape. In the past,
styles and quality would swing wildly from year
to year. For example, “The Me Decade” of
the 1980’s became the decade of the White
Zinfandel. Fruity, sweet cocktail wines perfectly
suited the palates of a generation raised on
soda pop. Today, Zins usually take a more reserved
approach.
In Zin—The History and Mystery of
Zinfandel, David Darlington writes:
This lack of a coherent Zinfandel tradition
is, however, another thing that makes it a purely
American wine. Like the country in which the
vine found a home, the wine had no precedent
and hence had to invent itself. Makers
of Californian Cabernet know that their yardstick
stands in Bordeaux; producers of Pinot Noir and
Chardonnay compete with the climate and soils
of Burgundy; American Rieslings are judged by
how well they evoke the valley of the Rhine.
These standards have developed in Europe over
several centuries, while the vines that produce
such wines in the United States have scarcely
been in the ground for decades. The world’s
oldest Zinfandel vines, however, are growing
in California. Its tradition-such as it exists
after only a hundred years (roughly 125 now)-has
evolved along with American winemaking and is
still evolving. For better or worse, Zinfandel
has been California’s native contribution
to the international world of wine.
Zinfandel also mirrors the state of the American
wine industry today. What are we trying to attempt
in this “vinis” adventure? Rather
than learning about our climates and geographies,
and planting the appropriate grape varieties
in the right spots, is our goal simply to please
palates and tastes already programmed by beverages
other than wine? As Darlington so aptly and writes, "the
bottle of wine itself, (is) a point where culture
and agriculture meet.”
So Zinfandel might be seen as a grand experiment.
Perhaps that's why it has attracted so many advocates.
It complements many traditional American foods,
from the Thanksgiving turkey, to grilled/barbecued
meats, to regional foods such as Cajun cuisines.
The ZAP winemakers are still the alchemists
of the wine world. They continue to strive to
unlock more of the magic from this grape. They
constantly work with new formulas. Some, such
as Paul Draper, love what American oak has to
offer, but Draper also knows how to tame its
wildness. Other vintners find the grape aggressive,
adding too much tannin and overpowering the subtleties
and finer qualities they want in the wine. Still
others prefer utilizing French oak. The blending
of some Carignan and Petit Syrah is another technique
that winemakers such as Draper take. He believes
this gives backbone and ageability to his wines.
Finally, there are the purists--those who deplore
overripe grapes and believe this leads to one-dimensional
wines that lack complexity and the ability to
age long and well. Trying to nail down a traditional
winemaking process or style for the Zinfandel
grape is almost impossible.
So Zinfandel is a tricky mistress. The grapes
tend to ripen unevenly. Berries can range from
green to almost raisinated on a single cluster,
forcing a careful harvest. Notable producer Doug
Nalle made the following comment in Darlington’s
book, "I follow pH and taste as much as
I follow degrees Brix now.” A winemaker
needs to keep an eye on Zinfandel at every moment
in the field to in the winery.
For all these reasons, Zinfandel deserves the
title "America’s Grape." Although
it Just it has no definitive style, at its best
it can startle you with its bold and lust taste.
Yes, Zinfandel is out there for you to discover,
so try it. Get ZAPPED!
A
lagniappe – a
little something extra: |
In the past few years,
Zinfandel prices have skyrocketed, but they're
still 'way below the Cabernets of California
and Bordeaux. Their forward fruit posture
and accessible tannins, in most cases, make
them approachable for drinking right away.
But remember that the best Zins should age
well for at least five years and can continue
even longer.
Be aware that Zins can be some of the most alcoholic wines. Paul Draper of Ridge
believes you should remain in the 14-to-15 percent range in making a great Zinfandel.
For this reason, be sure to serve food with the full-bodied red Zinfandels.
Watch out for the level of spiciness in the foods you pair with Zinfandel. With
spicy foods, see that there’s plenty of forward fruit and don’t bring
blockbuster alcohol levels to the match-up.
Zin can possess a fairly wide range of aromas and flavors. However I have found
that, in general, a well-made Zin will have three major areas of aroma and flavors
profiled - fruity, spicy and woody being primary. The characteristic fruit found
on the nose and palate from Zins is in the class of “brambly berries” -
blackberry, raspberry, and cranberry – and will range to dark cherries,
plums and raisins. The spicy notes are mainly cinnamon, clove, allspice and black
pepper. The woody profiles are those of cedar, oak, leather and vanilla. Caramelized
and/or nutty profiles such as coffee, cocoa, chocolate, soy, walnut, chestnut,
almonds and hazelnut are often described.
The best matches for medium to full-bodied red Zinfandels with spicy berry and
pepper flavors are as follows: Barbecued meats, chicken
or pork (especially ribs), Barbecue sauce (sweet NOT spicy), grilled
beef (best with a full-bodied Zin), cheese (esp. rich
and/or strong) blue, feta, stilton, duck, lamb, sausage (esp.
grilled and/or spicy), turkey (esp. roasted), and don’t forget that all-American
favorite grilled hamburgers with cheese.
For lighter styled Zins to white Zinfandel, Chinese and Thai food make
good partners. Barbecued chicken with sweet sauce, ham, and overly
spicy pizzas. Think picnic wine! As Greg Harrington, one
of my favorite Master Sommeliers once said.
"When people ask me if I like white
Zinfandel, the geeky side of me says, 'It
is the cheeseburger of the culinary world…but
I love cheeseburgers!'" |
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Quest
For Fire
by Susan
Cashin
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Ever wonder
when, where and how the first barbecue took place?
According to anthropologists, our ancestors (homo
erectus) garnered mastery of fire about
500,000 years ago somewhere in what is now sub-Sahara
Africa. How? We can only imagine. Was there a
swiftly moving fire over the grasslands that
left burned and charred animals in its wake—animals
that our ancestors found and consumed? Or did
a bolt of lighting strike a tree trunk, producing
a glowing mass of charcoal? Perhaps, while our
forbears were huddling for warmth in winter near
a fire, a piece of raw meat accidentally dropped
onto the flames, and the resulting carmelization,
tenderizing and overall enhanced flavor of the
meat sparked one of the most important Eureka
moments for early man and civilization. (Maybe
use this term since there were no light bulbs
in prehistoric times. . .)
Fast forward half a million years.
Today, some form of grilling meats is found in
every culture’s culinary tradition. In
the past decade alone, grilling meat has taken
on a life of its own. Cooking shows dedicated
entirely to this cooking technique pepper the
airways. An entire revolution in outdoor living
has centered on the activity of grilling. The
simple portable barbecue grill has morphed into
entire outdoor kitchens, with state-of-the art
gas grills, infra-red flash grills & rotisseries
surrounded by luxurious pools and furnished outdoor
rooms complete with widescreen digital TV’s
and surround sound music systems.
But the beauty of grilling is that
some of the most wonderful experiences use the
most primitive means, in the most rustic places.
Who can forget that first camp-out as a child,
where the marshmallow was impaled on a stick
and then grilled over the flickering fire until
the blackened, bubbling puff of sugar was pulled
off the stick and positioned between two Honey
Graham crackers and half a Hershey’s chocolate
bar? The marshmallow would be so hot that the
chocolate became lava-like, and many a burned
lip and tongue resulted.
Or remember the hamburgers and hotdogs grilled
at school and church picnics and the family reunions.
On special holidays, one member of the family
was designated to get to the park early and stand
guard over the cherished spot, usually the one
closest to the water and music, and under the
most beautiful tree. The cicadas sang their song
as smoke rose from the grill pit and carried
the smell of summer across the park. The scent
touched the primordial regions of the brain and
lured people to the communal table.
So grilling is in our souls, our very DNA. Once
relegated mainly to summertime and the outdoors,
grilling has invaded all seasons, situations
and places. It has been elevated to an art from
- sometimes intimidating the novice. But grilling
is a basic skill that anyone can learn and master.
A few wonderful resources are available to turn
you into the Grilling King or Queen of the neighborhood.
One of the best is The Barbecue Bible by
Steven Raichlen, which contains everything you
ever wanted to know about grilling.Raichlen spent
three years, traveled to 25 countries and compiled
over 500 grilling recipes in order to write this
go-to guide to all grilling.
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Also, Cook’s Illustrated magazine
has a Web site chock full of information about
cooking, ingredients and product research. This
Web site requires a paid membership, but the
price is reasonable because it saves time, trouble
and money. When reading recipes, be sure to note
the country and region of the recipe, and look
to wines from those country and regions to match
to the recipe. Grilling recipes usually reflect
the heart, soul and foundation of a region's
culinary tradition, and the wines from that particular
region usually will be a good match. However,
in the recipes I provide in this article, I decided
to think outside of the bottle and provide some
alternative pairings with the menu.
Now let’s get down to the meat of the matter.
You can grill anything - from apples to zucchini!
However, when anyone says, “Let’s
barbecue or grill something tonight!” eggplant
is not the first thing that comes to mind. It’s
meat--beef, chicken, pork and fish—that
springs to mind. Recipes, styles, rubs, and marinades
are too numerous to list, but we'll take a look
at some unusual choices to add to your grilling
repertoire.
We recommend obtaining local meat from farmers’ markets
and regional specialty meat shops. Look for meats
from animals that were grass-fed and raised in
sustainable and humane conditions. We are fortunate
here in central Texas to have access to a wide
range of locally and regionally grown meat products
such as Berkshire pork, grass-fed lamb, Longhorn
beef, bison, and wild boar, antelope and deer.
One caveat on grilling grass-fed meats is that
they tend to be leaner and require 30 percent
less cooking time, on average. Care and practice
are required, but the results are well worth
the added effort. Scientific studies are
showing that animals raised utilizing organic
and sustainable methods are lower in cholesterol
and bad fats, and that they contain substances
that are proving to be beneficial to our health.
The flavors these unique meats impart bring a
new taste experience to our table. Try some grass-fed
lamb from Loncito’s Grass-Fed Lamb. You’ll
love the Berkshire pork from Peach Creek Farm.
Broken Arrow Ranch in Ingram, Texas, can ship
wild boar, antelope, and axis deer to your doorstep.
(See Sidebar for contact information.) I recently
tried an antelope burger from Broken Arrow Ranch
and the flavor was amazing. I wished for a superb
Pinotage from Bon Courage Estate in South Africa,
or a Geyserville Zinfandel from Ridge.
Experimenting with grilling different foods adds
new notes to the symphony of the palate. New
food and wine partnerships are there to be discovered.
Simple grilled shrimp, with a crisp New Zealand
Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, will set the
stage for a grilled feast. Follow with
some spicy shrimp and/or sausage and bring a
Gewürztraminer or Alsatian Riesling to the
dance floor. If you decide on a sweet and sour
sauce on your shrimp, try a lovely Chenin Blanc
from South Africa.
Grilling is fast, easy and simple. In these hot
months you will save on the air-conditioning bills
by not heating up the kitchen and cleanup is minimal.
But most of all, the grill was our first table.
Academics argue that we became socialized beings,
developed language and a sense of community at
the cooking fire. There are a few regions of the
world that claim the title of the cradle of civilization
and those that claim to have saved civilization.
But man’s first barbecue, man’s discovery
of how to grill, was the forge upon which civilization
was created. |

Mesolithic to
Modern Menu – A Neanderthal
could grill this feast
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Appetizer
Simple Lemon/Lime Shrimp
2 lbs. Jumbo Shrimp
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3 teaspoons coarse sea salt
3 teaspoons freshly ground white pepper
1 large, juicy lime
- Preheat grill to high.
- Rinse shrimp, blot dry, and place in glass
dish and sprinkle w/lemon juice and 1 teaspoon
each of salt and pepper.
- Cut lime into 4 wedges. Place each wedge
in small shallow bowl or dish and ½ tsp.
of salt on one side of the lime and a ½ tsp.
of pepper on the other.
- Oil grill grate and grill shrimp in their
shells until the flesh is firm and pink (about
2 minutes per side. Use tongs to turn.
- Place shrimp on serving plates. Squeeze
lime over salt and pepper in bowl and mix together.
Peel shrimp, dip into lime mixture and enjoy.
Wine suggestion: New Zealand
Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough
Main Course
South Texas Antelope Burgers
- Set grill heat to medium
- Oil grate so antelope patties won’t
stick. Patties contain 15% beef to add some
much needed fat. Be sure not to overcook patties.
Cook so that patties are still pink inside.
Over cooking with produce a dry burger.
- Lightly butter burger buns and grill just
prior to antelope burgers being done.
- Have plate of sliced Texas 1014Y onions (if
in season), sliced tomatoes, sliced cheddar
cheese (preferably Brazos Valley Cheese), and
lettuce leaves ready and waiting accompanied
by mustard and mayo if you like.
Wine suggestions: A Geyserville Zinfandel from
Ridge for a real treat! If you can find a well-crafted
Pinotage from South Africa give it a whirl. And
never forget that beer is a fantastic choice.
My favorite for summer is the Rio Blanco Pale
Ale from Real Ale Brewing Company.
Grilled Corn accompanied with Mixed Grilled
Veggies
- Have grill on high heat
- Make spiced butter. Place 1 stick salted
butter, 3 tablespoons cilantro, 1 clove garlic,
two whole chopped scallions, and ¼ tsp.
cayenne pepper into food processor. Pulse
until mixture is smooth and spreadable.
- Take 8 ears of whole corn and shuck.
- Place ears on oiled grill grate, turn with
tongs and grill for 8 to 12 minutes and brush
with butter spread occasionally.
- Cut and slice other veggies i.e. summer squash,
bell peppers (green, red, yellow), zucchini,
carrots and grill along with corn. It
helps to have a grilling veggie basket. Brush
veggies also with spiced butter mixture.
Dessert
Banana Rama
Prepare the bananas at least 3 hours in advance.
- Take 4 slightly green bananas.
- Peel and grill on oiled grated. Turn
with tongs until pleasantly browned all over
about 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from grill
and slice on the diagonal into bite-sized pieces.
- Have already prepared and cooled the marinade. ½ cup
maple syrup, ¼ cup dark rum, 1/8 cup
of sugar, ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon, 1/8
tsp. freshly grated nutmeg, 1/8 tsp. ground
cardamom. Combine ingredients and heat
gently, do not boil, until sugar is dissolved. Remove
from heat and set aside to cool.
- Place hot grilled bananas into marinade.
Let cool to room temperature, cover and marinate
in refrigerator for 3 hours.
- Place favorite vanilla ice cream (Blue Bell
Homemade Vanilla) in dessert bowls. Spoon bananas
with some marinade over the ice cream. Sprinkle
with toasted coconut, and nuts of choice (esp.
macadamia or almonds).
Wine suggestion: Ice wine – Look to Canadian ice wines.
Great values and wonderful flavor profiles. Inniskillin
and Peller are recommended producers.
For beef, bison, lamb, chicken, pork,
cheese, tomatoes and other vegetables
visit:
The Austin Farmers’ Market
Downtown
4th & Guadalupe
Every Saturday (rain or shine)
9AM – 2PM
The Austin Farmers’ Market
at the Triangle
North Lamar and Guadalupe
Every Wednesday evening (rain or shine)
4PM-8PM
Visit the website: www.austinfarmersmarket.org
Broken Arrow Ranch
3296 Junction Highway
Ingram, TX 78025
www.brokenarrowranch.com |
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| Gourmet on the Texas
Gulf Coast |
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Gourmet
on the Texas Gulf Coast
by
Amy E. Lemen
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It’s that time of year when
our thoughts turn to vacations, especially on a
beach. With an easy commute of four to six hours,
depending on your destination, a beach weekend
away from Austin is the ideal getaway.
But there’s much more than fried food (although
there’s certainly something to be said for
that!) to scarf down on the Texas Gulf coast. Now,
beachgoing vacationers can find the same gourmet
food they’re used to at places like Central
Market and Whole Foods Market at specialty gourmet
grocery stores popping up all over the Texas coast.
These fine food havens are featuring specialty
foods, fine wines, and even catering services.
And why not? It’s all about meeting demand,
often those who can well afford it. The real estate
boom alone from about-to-retire Boomers and those
investing in real estate on the coast has created
a demand for the same comforts of home – including
the ability to shop for gourmet goodies.
Consider that, in 2005, second home purchases
accounted for 40 percent of all sales, according
to the National Association of Realtors – and
many of those were on or near the water. Research
shows that resort and vacation areas tend to attract
second homebuyers who don't need to be near jobs
and schools.
Of course, those same homeowners still want the
convenience of a Central Market or a Whole Foods
Market with their artisan cheeses, freshly baked
breads and knowledgeable food and wine staff.
Luckily, vacationers won’t have to look
too far to find something other than cheap white
zinfandel for beachside quaffing – or raid
the wine cellar before heading southward. Enterprising
foodies and entrepreneurs are recognizing the need
for something a little more upscale and are beginning
to serve up style along the Texas coast.
Take Veste, which opened
a few months ago on Padre Boulevard in South
Padre Island. Offering fine food to-go,
ranging from Eggplant Napoleon to comfort food
like lasagna and meat loaf, it’s proven a
popular hangout and already has its share of regulars – both
full-time islanders and those with second homes.
A large selection of wines and gourmet goods (think
extra-dark chocolate truffles, free trade coffee
beans, gourmet pasta sauces and olive oils, and
more); frequent tastings and events; artisanal
cheeses; homemade breads; and gourmet picnic baskets
for al fresco dining on the beach – or at
home – have made Veste a must-stop for foodies.
In Galveston, Maceo
Spice & Import Company (2501
Market; 409-763-3331) serves a large selection
of muffalettas, plus fine imported and specialty
foods. But it’s the muffalettas that
are the real story here. Italian immigrant
Tony Lovi created the famed muffaletta in the
French Quarter of New Orleans in 1901. A tantalizing
blend of fine Italian salami, ham, provolone
cheese in a freshly baked Italian bread round,
topped with the olive dressing that keeps true
fans coming back for more.
Long story short, in 1926, eight-year-old Rosario
Maceo helped his Uncle Tony make those muffalettas
in the French Quarter, selling them on street corners.
Now, Rosario’s son, Ronnie, runs the store,
but Rosario’s usually there, too, making
a special muffaletta to order and still getting
up each morning to make the muffalettas made famous
by Uncle Tony.
Besides the muffalettas, Maceo’s also has
a retail store featuring a line of fine imported
and specialty foods, such as olive oils, olives,
pasta, meats and cheeses, capers, coffee and tea,
plus hard-to-find-at-the-beach specialty food items.
Maceo’s also offers both catering and gift
basket services to suit. Even better, if you suddenly
develop a craving for one of Maceo’s muffalettas – and
you’re home in Austin – they’ll
deliver it to your door.

Also in Galveston, you’ll find the longest
running retail store on The Strand. The Old
Strand Emporium (2112 Strand; 409-515-0715)
specializes in Texas foods and gifts, offering
fresh fudge, a deli, cold drinks and The Strand's
largest assortment of imported and domestic beers
and Texas wines.
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Offering eclectic menus that change regularly, The
Market on Avenue L (1528 Avenue L at
16th Street, Strand Historic District, 409-621-1100)
is beachgoer’s source for beach gourmet
off the beach.
Dubbed an “upscale boutique market catering” with
delivery, take-out or dine-in options and the brainchild
of well-known Houston caterer Jim Manning, The
Market on Avenue L features local organic produce
on its menu, artisan cheese, grass-fed meats and
fresh bakery selections. Choose from food-to-go,
catering, on-site dining and a selection of specialty
retail items like spices, wine, hard-to-find ingredients
and more.
Manning is a member of the Southern Foodways
Alliance, the Slow Food Movement, and is a member
of the Chef's Advisory Board for Recipe for Success'
Chefs in Schools Program. He’s also been
recognized in My Table magazine and in The
Houston Press as one of Houston's top caterers
and as Caterer of the Year. In any case,
Manning’s food philosophy will surely resonate
with all food and wine fans.
“Food should be visually and gastronomically
enticing, always impeccably fresh and always real,” he
says on the market’s website. “Customers
will enjoy the best quality menu items available
and a convenience concept that’s devoted
to the Galveston Island lifestyle.”
After all, gourmet in a French five-star restaurant
(and as artfully portrayed in the newest children’s – and
foodie parents’ – movie Ratatouille,
which had none other than Thomas Keller of French
Laundry fame as the movie’s consultant) is
a bit different scenario than simply wanting great
food that may occasionally get sand in it. And
that, of course, is part of the charm.
Although the market was still awaiting its liquor
license (as of July 2007), the market encourages
patrons to bring in their own wine (or beer). A
$10 corkage fee applies – for the wine, that
is – unless you’re toting in a vintage
corked beer like Edition vintage 2005 Belgian strong
pale ale with that homemade pimiento cheese, or
the duck comfit and chicken liver palate – two
of the sample offerings on Avenue L’s summer
2007 menu.
Not too far away in Port Aransas, Liquid
Town was founded in 1951 as a
family-owned and operated business in Corpus
Christi and, since its beginning, both the
family and the business have experienced considerable
growth. With eight locations in the area, all
are locally owned and managed by the same family.
Find your favorite spirits, plus a huge wine selection,
fine cigars, kegs for that party on the beach,
custom-designed gift baskets for the client you
neglected to inform of your impending beach vacation,
and complete party planning services – in
the event that you’d rather just, well, lay
on the beach with the latest Dean Koontz novel.
In the Rockport-Fulton area,
known for its fishing, it’s no surprise that Alby's
Seafood Po-Boys (3402 Hwy 35 North,
Fulton, 361-729-1521) is the place to go for the
best from the Gulf coast. A family-owned operation
for the last 24 years, their goal is to “bring
the Rockport/Fulton area the freshest seafood available.”
“My mission is to use my many culinary experiences
to bring the same fresh seafood to you as traditional
Gulf Coast fare,” says Hope Godinich, chef
and Alby family descendant. “All our seafood
is hand-breaded and cooked to order using the finest
ingredients available.”
Try the mahi, grouper, amberjack, tuna, snapper,
flounder and black drum – all are fresh fish
regulars at Alby’s. They also carry premium
quality farm-raised catfish and redfish, plus a
variety of specialty items such as blue crab meat
(jumbo, regular lump, claw meat and crab fingers),
as well as fresh Gulf oysters, and ready-to-cook
items like stuffed crab, shrimp, jalapenos, crab
cakes, frog legs and much more.
No matter where you are on the Texas gulf coast,
when that craving for gourmet food hits – and
you don’t mind a little sand with that Pouilly
Fuisse – there’s clearly no shortage
of where to find it. And that’s more than a
welcome addition. |
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Summer
Fruit Drinks
by
Sam Armstrong
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With the tyrannical summer heat
preparing to bully all but the toughest Texans,
delightful Lone-Star state produce and vinicultural
bounties combine to create the perfect recipe for
keeping summer at bay. Two of Western Europe’s
most popular traditional beverages - the Spanish
Sangria and the Italian Bellini - present the perfect
opportunities to showcase delicious Texas produce
such as Fredericksburg peaches, Poteet strawberries,
and Rio Grande Valley oranges.
According to Jane Nickles, Austin Wine Educator
and author of WineSpeak 101, she can hardly
get ten minutes into her introductory wine course
before someone asks about Sangria. In her sparkling
wine course, everyone wants her to serve Mimosas.
“Miss Jane,” as her students call
her, says she is always happy to teach about Sangria,
a delicious Spanish wine punch. Punch made from
wine is a long tradition in Europe, having been
traced back to the “Claret
Cup Punch” popular in England in the 1700’s. This
type of beverage is perhaps akin to our “Vodka
in the Punch Bowl” tradition
here in the states. In other words, it's
an inexpensive party drink that delivers a good
dose of alcohol to get party guests.
Traditional Sangria is a red wine punch, made
with Red Rioja or a similar dry, Spanish red wine.
However, in Penedes, a sparkling version of Sangria
is made with Cava. In the south of Spain, Sangria is
called zurra, and is made with peaches and nectarines – of
which delicious Texas varieties abound this time
of year. The crowd-pleasing punch can also be made
with white wine, at which point it becomes 'Sangria
Blanco.'
Sangria was introduced to the U.S. at the 1964
World’s
Fair in New York City, where it was an instant hit.
More than thirty years later it remains popular. Nickles
shared her favorite recipe for traditional Sangria. "But
be careful," she warns. "In the finest
'punch bowl' tradition, it packs an alcoholic wallop,
belied by its fruity sweet flavor."
Jane
Nickles’ Traditional Sangria |
Ingredients:1
Bottle Red Rioja or other
Dry Red Wine from
Spain
- ½ Cup Sugar
- 1 Cup Brandy
- 1 Orange
- 1 Lemon
- 1 Apple
- 1 Quart Sparkling Water
- 10 Strawberries, sliced
- Fresh Fruit for Garnish
Method: Slice the orange
and lemons into thin rounds. Remove the
core from the apple and slice into thin wedges. Mix
the sliced fruit with the sugar and let sit
overnight. The next morning, add the brandy
and the red wine. When ready to serve,
add the sparkling water and sliced strawberries. Serve
over ice with an outrageous garnish of fresh
fruit. |
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As for sparkling
wine, Miss Jane says she hardly ever starts a bubbly
class without someone's enthusiastically expressing
their love of that common brunch staple, the Mimosa. While
she is happy talk about Mimosas, and offer a simple
recipe (one part Orange Juice to two parts bubbly),
she does warn students not to “waste” their
good Champagne or Sparkling Wine in a Mimosa. She
prefers a unique alternative for joining sweet
fruits with sparkling wine. “If you
want a really good cocktail made with sparkling
wine," she says, “I will talk you into
a love affair with the Bellini.”
From the end of May through the crippling heat
of late August, Texas stone fruit (peaches, apricots
and nectarines) are at their most delicious and
readily available to combat the scorching temperatures. Nature’s
timing makes the warmer months the perfect time
to embrace the true Bellini - a revitalizing drink
made with Prosseco and Peach Puree. Some compare
the drink to a Mimosa, but according to Miss Jane,
that's like comparing apples and oranges, or, more
precisely, peaches and oranges. What I'm saying
is, there is no comparison.
The Bellini was invented in 1948 at Harry's
Bar in Venice, Italy. Giuseppe Cipriani was the
head bartender at the time, and had a yen for Italian white peaches. He worked
long and hard trying to develop a perfect cocktail which would use the peaches
as a base. Eventually he tried the simple combination of pureed white peaches
and a sparkling Prosecco, and the Bellini was born.
According to Nickles, some Bellini recipes might
call for Peach Schnapps, Peach Nectar, or other
ingredients. However, a real Bellini is made
from fresh white peaches (from Fredericksburg,
for example), peeled and pureed to a smooth consistency.
“If you must, you can substitute any type
of peaches for the white peaches, and you’ll
still have a refreshing drink,” Nickles says. “But
don’t call it a Bellini!” (How
about Peachini?)
“Serve any time of day for a refreshing, cool drink,” says Nickles, “I
guarantee you will feel ten degrees cooler upon
your first sip.”
Here is the original Bellini Recipe.
The Bellini |
- 1 Ounce Fresh White Peach Puree, made from
fresh, peeled white peaches
- 5 Ounces Prosseco
Pour peach puree into a fluted glass, then top
with the Prosseco. The peach puree with
foam up a bit, so take care when adding the Prosseco. |
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