PLATE & VINE | SUMMER 2007

Wine & Food Foundation Welcomes New President – J. Buckner Hightower
–by Rebecca Robinson

One might define Buckner Hightower as perhaps the quintessential renaissance man. Businessman, entrepreneur, restauranteur, and visionary who is well-read, likes to cook and a man who knows his wine. In addition, like any good Foundation President worth his salt, he is committed to and passionate about excellence in wine and food...

A Taste of Texas in the Big Apple
by Rona Distenfeld

Ask any two Texans where to find the best barbecue and you’ll get an argument. Ask them which state has the best barbecue and they’ll agree: hands down, it’s right here in the Lone Star State. Chili might be our official state dish, but it’s our barbecue that we hold dear to our hearts....

2007 an Osmotic Odyssey
by Drew Hendricks

Osmotic pressure is not just fun to say, it also confusing. Reverse osmosis is a new tool being used by winemakers all over the world for many reasons. Clark Smith is considered a pioneer in the field, his company Vinovation is hated by many, loved by some and...

Member Profile:
Jordan Actkinson
by Tessa Cooper

Jordan Actkinson considers himself one of the “luck ones” since he has yet to find a reason to leave Austin since his arrival in 1992. Part of his motivation could have been his mother’s comment when dropping...

 



Getting Back to Our Roots
by Rebecca Robinson, photography by Stacy Sodolak

The Degustateer gets ZAPPED!
by Susan Cashin

Quest for Fire
by Susan Cashin

Gourmet on the
Texas Gulf Coast

by Amy E. Lemen


Summer Fruit Drinks
by Sam Armstrong


Foundation Welcomes New President – J. Buckner Hightower
 

Wine & Food Foundation Welcomes New President – J. Buckner Hightower
by Rebecca Robinson



One might define Buckner Hightower as perhaps the quintessential renaissance man. Businessman, entrepreneur, restauranteur, and visionary who is well-read, likes to cook and a man who knows his wine. In addition, like any good Foundation President worth his salt, he is committed to and passionate about excellence in wine and food.

Currently in the aeronautics and space industry which takes him across the globe throughout the year, Hightower’s background is a fascinating mosaic of experience in fields as varied as manufacturing, restaurants, real estate development, international aerospace, and music recording. In several of these industries he has held leadership positions of Chief Executive Officer and Chief Financial Officer.

His non-profit service is equally impressive. Hightower is a member of the Board of Trustees for the International Space University, located in Strasbourg.  His work for the Robert Heinlein Prize Trust, which initiates prize contests for advanced aerospace students, led him to be inducted into The Order of Gagarin. This is an honor bestowed by The Cosmonautics Federation of Russia to persons who have accomplished work to further aerospace education and exploration. Hightower is one of only two Americans known to hold this proud distinction.

Locally, Buckner has a long-established career as a successful restauranteur, founding downtown Texas hot-spots such as Malaga Wine Bar & Cafe, Saba Blue Water Cafe, Saba Houston, Cedar Street Courtyard, Moonshine Patio Bar & Grill and Bertram’s.

With a keen marriage of business and artistry, Hightower brings a unique perspective to the Foundation. “This Foundation is the only one I know of that combines the culinary and viticulture arts.” As a result, the Foundation attracts many people throughout the industry; chefs, vintners and professionals in hospitality, sommeliers, restauranteurs, educators, farmers, and students among many others. Additionally, people from all backgrounds come together to enjoy food, wine and each others’ company. “It’s exciting and also rewarding to work with so many talented and experienced people of diverse backgrounds.”

Hightower views the Foundation as a statewide membership organization and eventually, a clearinghouse for all things wine and food related – a valuable resource for consumers, students and professionals.

“I want to use the momentum other Foundation leaders and volunteers have built to expand our programs and projects throughout the state. We want to eventually serve as the primary resource for wine and food in Texas. Each year we make great strides in attracting industry professionals, charitable leaders and wine and food celebrities. With such a strong pool of talented people involved, there’s no reason why the Foundation can’t be a national presence for Texas wine and food.”

For what started as a small, home-grown organization, the Foundation has nearly crossed the million dollar mark, garnered a whopping 500 members in a short period of time, developed a mailing list over 5,000 strong and most impressive, awarded over a half- million dollars for education and research in wine and food in the past five years.

When asked what he would like to communicate to Foundation members he replied, “I believe our success as a Foundation is rooted in our membership. Our best ideas and strongest support come from our members so I want to ask them to keep in contact with us. How can we do what we do, better? I want to ensure strong avenues for feedback and communication.”

Buckner is joined by new Board members Howard Kells, owner of Doña Emilia’s South American Bar & Grill, and Brian Owens, former television executive and former owner of the Austin Wine Merchant. New Advisory Committee members include: Aimee Olson, Texas Culinary Academy; Ann Clark, kitchen design consultant and cookbook author; Steve Hanes, Vintage IT Systems; Jim Stone, Managing Director, Stone Partners, Inc. and Kevin Blessing, Central Market.

Got an idea or feedback for the upcoming year?  Email Rebecca Robinson, Executive Director at Robinson@winefoodfoundation.org.

 

A Taste of Texas in the Big Apple
 
A Taste of Texas in the Big Apple
by Rona Distenfeld


A Taste of Texas in the Big Apple

Ask any two Texans where to find the best barbecue and you’ll get an argument. Ask them which state has the best barbecue and they’ll agree: hands down, it’s right here in the Lone Star State. Chili might be our official state dish, but it’s our barbecue that we hold dear to our hearts.

For all its variations, Texas barbecue is definitely unique  in taste, style, and experience. Whether you favor spicy or mild sausage, tender brisket, or ribs (pork or beef), Texas has some of the best, and the Hill Country boasts more than its share of places that have earned fame and loyal fans.

At real Texas barbecue joints, it’s all about the meat, usually served in butcher paper with paper plates, plastic forks, and a very limited selection of sides. Now this tradition of taste and experience has found its way north, all the way to New York City.

A Childhood Dream Made Real

Entrepreneur Marc Glosserman is not from Texas, and he never planned to own a restaurant. However, his family on both sides was from Texas, going back four generations, so as a child Glosserman spent almost every holiday in Lockhart. The tastes and smells of Kreuz Market were part of that childhood.

“Barbecue, Blue Bell ice cream, and Big Red soda were all part of my childhood,” Glosserman recalls. “I had this vague idea about someday opening a restaurant that would offer all these things in the D.C. area, where we lived, but it was never really a plan.” Instead he started companies in the telecommunications and health care fields, lived and worked in London for a while, then spent six months traveling the world. That made him want to reconnect with his roots, so he returned to the states.

During a visit to Lockhart for a cousin’s wedding, Glosserman had a conversation with Rick Schmidt, owner of Kreuz Market. He knew he wanted to share his memories and his roots with others.He was planning to move to New York, and the idea of bringing Texas barbecue to a foodie capital appealed to him. He put together a business plan, and three and half years later, the restaurant is a reality.



Real Hill Country Barbecue at 26th and Broadway

Hill Country Barbecue & Market officially opened in June, but before the renovations were even complete the barbecue was reminding visiting Texans of home. Dale Watson (official Texas State Musician for 2007) and his Lonestars played a private event there May 18. “The guys all agreed that was some of the best barbecue we’d had anywhere,” says Don Pawlak, the band’s pedal steel player.

To get that real Texas taste, Glosserman hired Executive Chef Elizabeth Karmel and Pitmaster Robbie Richter. Karmel had been teaching a barbecue class at the Institute for Culinary Education that was so popular it was full a year out. Glosserman called her, showed her his business plan, and she was sold. Even though she’s from North Carolina, she was compelled by Glosserman’s desire to create a restaurant that honored his roots as authentically as possible. Soon, she  decided to learn how they do it in Texas.

“She liked that I was willing to do what it takes to get it right,” says Glosserman. “I wanted to do my best take on Texas, and that meant focusing on more than just the meat. I had to provide the whole experience, right down to the butcher paper.”

Meanwhile, Richter was garnering kudos for his barbecue skills. A friend of a friend of a friend, who had started the Barbecue NYC event, told Glosserman about Richter, who was heavily into the competitive scene at the time. Barbecue was his calling, and he was immediately interested in Glosserman’s idea.

Having rounded up his crew and investors, Glosserman took the next key step; he sent his team to Central Texas to learn about real barbecue. “They went to all the great places,” says Glosserman. “Cooper’s in Llano, Southside Market in Elgin, the Salt Lick, Kreuz Market, everywhere. And Robbie spent a week training with the folks at Kreuz.”



Real Taste all the Way from Texas

Training the staff was just the first part. To get that real Texas taste, Glosserman had his smokers and the post oak wood that fires them shipped all the way from Lockhart. While he buys his top quality meat from local purveyors (except for the sausage, which comes from Kreuz), other menu items, such as the Blue Bell ice cream and Big Red Soda, are Texas imports.

The menu features all the classic barbecue joint favorites--brisket, ribs (pork and beef), and sausage. There are also Beer Braised Cowboy Pinto Beans, green bean casserole, cole slaw, potato salad, jalapeno peppers, white bread, and cobbler to make any Texan feel at home.

Then the menu goes a bit further, with Elzabeth Karmel’s own chili recipe, mac and cheese, shoepeg cornbread, Beer Can Game Hen, Market Chicken and other specialty goodies. Desserts include Ancho Chile Cherry Brownies, PB&J Cupcakes, and Bourbon Pecan Pie.

Over at the bar, Hill Country offers more than a dozen beers, although for now only Lone Star is from Texas. “We really wanted to open with Shiner Bock,” says Glosserman. “The problem was with the distribution, so we’re just going to have to wait for that and for Pearl’s until we can get someone to distribute them up here.”

The bar also offers Tito’s Handmade Vodka, which is featured in a number of specialty drinks. Try an 8-Layer Dip, a Hill Country Cooler, or a Chili Cherry Chocolate Martini and you’ll be drinking Tito’s.

Wine? Well, it is NYC.

Few, if any, barbecue joints in Texas offer wine. But this is New York, and Glosserman wanted to showcase all the great tastes of Texas that he could. “I don’t think many New Yorkers realize that Texas even has a wine industry, even though it’s the largest viticulture region in the U.S.,” says Glosserman. “I wanted to introduce that to New York, so our wine list features Texas wines exclusively, except for sparkling wines, which I had to get elsewhere.”

Working with local wine expert Wes Marshall, Glosserman developed a list that includes wines from Fall Creek, Becker, Texas Hills, Flat Creek, Llano Estacado, and St. Genevieve. He expects the list to grow over time to include other Texas wineries.

Glosserman also hopes to offer other Texas products. Pecans, pickles and preserves are on his short list, and he is open to ideas for other retail products.

Don’t Forget to Dance

Texas music is as much a part of the culture Glosserman wants to share as is the food. He opened Hill Country with performances by Heybale, a Continental Club fixture in Austin, and he plans to have live music two to three nights a week.

“I love the Austin music scene,” says Glosserman. “Having Dale Watson play here before we were even open was great. I’m also a big fan of Rob Schneider and the blues, so we plan to bring a mix of Austin music here.”

The restaurant, which seats 250 people on two floors, includes a stage in the lower seating area. Picnic style tables can be moved around to make room for dancing on the concrete floor.

Authentic Texas food, drink, and music. What more could NYC ask for?

When You Go:

Hill Country Barbecue & Market
30 West 26th Street
(between 6th Avenue and Broadway)
(212) 255-4544

 
2007 an Osmotic Odyssey
 

2007 an Osmotic Odyssey
by Drew Hendricks



Osmotic pressure is not just fun to say, it also confusing. Reverse osmosis is a new tool being used by winemakers all over the world for many reasons. Clark Smith is considered a pioneer in the field, his company Vinovation is hated by many, loved by some and definitely on everyone’s lips. Harkening back to High School science classes is necessary to some for this exercise.

Osmosis is the movement of any solvent through a semi-permeable membrane to equalize the solution on either side. Imagine two water solutions only separated by a semi-permeable membrane. If common table salt is added to one side, water will flow through the membrane from the unaltered side to the saline side to try to equalize the two solutions. “Voila!” Osmotic Pressure.

Reverse Osmosis occurs when pressure is added to the saline solution, this pressure forces clean water back through the membrane and concentrates the other solution. This technology was developed to desalinate water aboard naval vessels. This standard application works well until you start applying this procedure to liquids with dissolved molecules. Wine does not work well with traditional reverse osmosis; the molecules clog the pores of the membrane. The solution is a cross-flow model. Wine still under pressure flows across the membrane at a high rate of speed preventing the molecules from clogging the membrane.

At this point the wine has been divided into two separate liquids, the alcohol and water mixture, know as the permeate, and the retentate. Now the permeate must be distilled. In distillation the alcohol and water are separated in order to complete the alcohol adjustment. The water is added back to retentate, when making de-alcoholized wine you do not have to add the water from the process back to the wine. However, when you are adjusting the alcohol you must, by law, add the water that was removed with the alcohol back to the wine. Typically producers will process about twenty-five percent of a wine using reverse-osmosis and then blend back to the desired alcohol level.

Reverse osmosis is used to tackle four major problems in winemaking: removing water from grape must, removing alcohol or volatile acidity from finished wine and removing 4-ethylphenol (a component associated with Brettanomyces). In climates where rain is a problem at harvest, such as Bordeaux, winemakers are using reverse osmosis to remove water from must prior to fermentation. The removal of 4-ethylphenol is a relatively recent discovery being used to reverse the negative effects of Brettanomyces.

Most people using this technology are using it to remove excess alcohol after primary fermentation. Two buzz-words in the industry are responsible for the high alcohol wine boom, “Hang-Time” and “Phenolic Ripeness”. Phenolic ripeness refers to flavor maturity and not sugar ripeness. Hang time is a phrase meaning the act of leaving grapes on the vine to ripen. Flavor maturity and sugar ripeness are independent of each other. The increase of sugar and decrease of acids in grapes as they mature are based completely on the local climate where the grapes are grown. Conversely, the components of flavor maturity; tannins, aromatic complexity, flavor, and color ripen according to time not climate. This causes problems in both cool and warm climates. Warm climates accumulate sugar quickly so more “Hang Time” is required for phenolic ripeness. During this long hang time sugar continues to accumulate, causing high alcohol levels.

Clark Smith and his company Vinovation came along just in time for the hang-time revolution. They were busy from the day they opened and not just removing volatile acidity and alcohol from cheap wine either, they found many immediate clients in the Napa Valley. When it comes to alcohol Smith claims there is a “Sweet Spot” a level of alcohol where it is perfectly in balance with the fruit. Many would argue that viticultural practices can help to achieve this “sweet spot” in a finished wine. Smith and the Vinovation team have sweet spot tastings for all of their clients. They prepare bench samples of wines of varying alcohol levels, generally in .1 degree increments. With the client they taste through to determine which percentage of alcohol is the “sweet spot”.  Many reports regarding “sweet spot” tastings testify to Smiths’ claims that, for example, alcohol at 13.25 can be hot and accentuate bitter notes in a wine alcohol at 13.15 can taste sweet and accentuate the fruit.

No matter how many verbal opponents there might be it appears that R.O. is here to stay. With thousands of, mostly silent, clients, Vinovation and other companies such as Conetech are a huge success. Barring any neo-luddite, reverse osmosis revolution it looks like Smiths’ claims that just like any new technology it will take a while for everyone to grow accustom to will prove true.
 
Rising to the Top, Member Profile: Jordan Actkinson
 
Rising to the Top, Member Profile: Jordan Actkinson,
President/Owner Ambiente Wine Importing Company
by Tessa Cooper




Jordan Actkinson considers himself one of the lucky ones, because he's managed to stay in Austin since he first arrived in 1992. Part of his motivation could have been his mother’s comment, when she dropped him off for his first semester at U.T.

"I knew I was growing up when I left Austin," she told her eighteen-year-old son.  Whether Jordan has grown up is yet to be determined, but one thing is sure. He didn't have to leave Austin. Instead, he has made a life for himself here as owner of his own wine importing company.

Actkinson’s nose turned to wine when he began delivering for Ambiente during his last semester of undergraduate school. Since wholesalers sample dozens of wines a month looking for brands to carry, Jordan found himself tasting an array of wines while at the same time developing a more educated appreciation for their subtleties. This turned out to be a perfect job for a twenty-one year old college student who believed that pouring out tasting wines was a “transgression of incalculable magnitude.” This led to his amassing a quite nice wine collection at home. After only two weeks on the job, Actkinson was asked to stay on with Ambiente after graduation.

Quickly rising through the ranks at Ambiente, Actkinson accredits much of his success to the then owner, Gayle Braecklein. “She gave me a job and an enormous amount of responsibility for a person of my age,” Actkinson says. “She has been my mentor and like a big sister to me as well. Both of those roles continue to this day.”

In 2000, encouraged by Braecklein and also his future wife, Kim, Jordan enrolled in the evening M.B.A. classes at U.T. A year after completing his Masters', he left Ambiente to travel and embark on a new career as a consultant. That didn't last long; a surprise was coming.

Soon after he left Ambiente, Braecklein informed Jordan that she was going to sell the business. He jumped at the chance to buy it!

"This couldn’t have worked out better," he says now, looking back. "It was good for everyone involved. I have been friends with many of the people that work at Ambient for years, and we have a good time working together.

“This is certainly an important part of living the dream.”

Jordan says the best thing about Ambiente--and the wine business in general--is the people, and he's glad he had the courage to purchase the company, because he can now continue Braecklein’s tradition of providing a great place to work. It all adds up to a genuine satisfaction in having taken on the responsibility of owning a business.

Back in the day Actkinson was a member of an informal group of “Wine Turks” and constantly found himself running into other self proclaimed “wine geeks” all over town. Being the small world Austin is, Actkinson later found he had many common friends on the advisory board of The Wine and Food Foundation and became a member. He found The Foundation shares his passion for the promotion of wine as a positive part of culture and good living--and who could argue with that.

In the industry Actkinson is frequently asked his favorite drink of choice and like any true connoisseur his answer is always “whatever is appropriate.” Given the current temperatures he can be found drinking a refreshing Rosé to combat the summer heat.

Actkinson can occasionally be found outdoors, hunting or fishing, maybe playing a round of golf. He doesn't get to enjoy these activities as much as he wishes he could, but he consoles himself with the knowledge that his work with Ambiente allows him more time for the “ultimate leisure:” wine, food and his favorite people.

As many can attest, we are glad that Jordan Actkinson has refused to grow up and has chosen to call Austin his home. We happily welcome him as a new member to The Foundation.

 
Getting Back to Our Roots
 
Getting Back to Our Roots
by Rebecca Robinson, Photography by Stacy Sodolak
Reprinted courtesy of Austin Monthly Home
www.austinmonthly.com


“EAT YOUR BEETS!” I remember hearing this from my mother over and over as a child and being apprehensive of the shiny purple disks on my plate. Not alone in my trauma of overcoming canned beets (the single most popular canned vegetable during World War II), I have found that many of us remain skittish and unsure what to do with fresh beets.

Now as an adult with a palate that extends beyond chicken fingers, I can appreciate the beauty of beets and the splash of vibrant color and flavor they add to an otherwise ordinary meal. When you discover just how easy it is to roast, grill or sauté them, beets can become a delicious, nutritious staple in your weekly meals.

Beets, sugar beets and garden beets originate from the same family as Swiss chard. Chard is the term commonly used that applies to the beet leaf without a large, fleshy root. Beets have the highest sugar content of any vegetable, and sugar beets are processed for sugar. Beets have been used throughout the centuries to cure everything from tuberculosis and scurvy to toothaches, to ward off mosquitoes and even to rouge the cheeks of Russian women.

Originating in the Mediterranean, beets migrated eastward in prehistoric times. One of the first known writings about beet root occurred in the 1300s, found in English recipes. Beets as we know them gained popularity after
the Christian era. Until then, they were mostly used for medicinal purposes. The ancient Greeks and Romans ate only the leaves, which were thought to be the most nutritious part.

Once beets were introduced to the United States, other varieties developed, such as the red beet, the long red, the Bassano and the Flat Egyptian. Today there are many different types and varieties, with colors ranging from blackish purple to red, bright green to white. When cut transversely, some varieties display alternating light and dark rings.

John Galindo, executive chef and owner of Cedar Grove Steakhouse in Wimberley, provides two delicious beet recipes to try this summer.

helpful hints for prepping

Beets are notorious for bleeding bright reddishpurple juice, which makes them messy for clothing, countertops and hands. To protect hands (and clothing) from the red dye, wear plastic gloves and an apron. If you do get stains, don’t
panic—they are not permanent and can easily be removed with fabric stain remover.

To lessen this effect and help preserve flavor and nutrients, cut off beet tops and leave about one inch of the stem and the roots. Wash and boil them whole (and unpeeled). Large beets can take from 30 minutes to an hour to become tender. Test doneness with a fork. When beets have cooled, cut off the roots and the stem ends. The skins should rub right off. The beets are ready to be sliced, chopped or put into your favorite recipe.

nutrition

Beets turn up aces when it comes to nutrients. They contain vitamin C, some B and iron. They are an excellent source of fiber, potassium and phosphorous. They are high in pytochemicals, which fight disease, and folate, which aids in preventing birth defects. Enjoy as many servings as you like: a half-cup of canned beets contains only 35 calories.

cooking methods

Beets are versatile, allowing for endless possibilities. They can be cooked in almost every possible way—pickled, sautéed, roasted, grilled, steamed or broiled. However, before cooking your beets, remember the greens! They are edible, delicious and packed full of nutrients. Try to consume them as soon as possible—they do not keep. Clean and coarsely chop greens and place in a small saucepan (like spinach leaves, they cook down dramatically). Place about 1⁄2 inch of water across the bottom of the saucepan. Toss in some salt and the juice of 1⁄2 a lemon. Cook the greens uncovered over high heat until cooked down.

Raw Beets: Sprinkle raw beets on salads, slice them alongside cucumbers with a
vinaigrette or serve grated beets as a side dish. To prepare, wear your plastic gloves and apron. Chop off the root and stem ends of the beets, peel and coarsely grate them. Keep in mind when you toss raw beets into a salad, the entire salad will “blush,” which can have a beautiful effect.

Roasting: Peel and cut off both root and stem ends. Slice the beets, and drizzle with a tablespoon or so of canola oil. Spread the beets on a roasting pan and place in oven at 400 degrees for approximately 30 minutes or until fork-tender. For extra flavor, add your favorite spices prior to roasting, such as salt, oregano, thyme or dill.

Sautéing: Scrub beets and slice off the stem and root ends. Peel them, and using a sturdy knife, cut into slices about 1⁄2 inch thick, then stack and dice. Sauté the pieces in a skillet or wok with a small amount of water and about a tablespoon of olive oil. To help beets retain their color, add a small amount of lemon juice or vinegar. Add water as needed while stirring and feel free to throw in your favorite spices. Stir until beets are tender.

Grilling: Brush quarter-inch slices with oil. Grill over medium-high heat for 15 to 20 minutes or until fork-tender. Flip as needed. An alternative method is to wrap beets in foil and place them on the perimeter of a medium-hot grill for 45 minutes to an hour. See recipe to the right for a delicious beet sauce to use on grilled meats.

 



Beet & Crab Salad with Goat Cheese & Pistachio

Serves 8

3 large red beets, without greens
2 large golden beets, without greens
Canola oil
1⁄4 cup shallot, minced
2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
3⁄4 teaspoon salt
1⁄4 teaspoon cracked fresh black pepper
1⁄4 cup extra virgin olive oil
4 ounces Texas fresh goat cheese
8 ounces lump crabmeat
3 tablespoons shelled pistachios, chopped
1 ounce micro greens

  1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Scrub beets, drizzle in canola oil and separately wrap red and golden beets tightly in double layers of foil. Roast until tender, about 2 hours.
  2. While beets are cooling, whisk together shallot, white balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper in small bowl, then add oil in a stream, whisking.
  3. When beets are cool enough to touch, slip off and discard skins. Separately cut red and golden beets into 1⁄4-inch dice and put in separate bowls. Add 21⁄2 tablespoons dressing to each bowl and toss to coat.
  4. Place PVC mold in center of plates. (Lightly oil first.) Place 1⁄8 of red beets in mold and pack down with fingertips.
  5. Break up 2 teaspoons goat cheese on top, then 1⁄8 of golden beets, packing down. Add
    one ounce crab meat.
  6. Gently lift mold. Repeat 7 more times.
  7. Drizzle each plate with 1 teaspoon dressing and scatter with some pistachios.
  8. Toss micro greens with remaining dressing to coat and gently mound on top of beets. Serve immediately.


Red Pepper Beet Jus

Serves 8

1 large red beet, without greens
4 roasted red peppers
1⁄2 cup sweet red vermouth
1 tablespoon kosher salt

1. Boil beet until tender. Cool and peel.
2. Roast and peel peppers.
3. Combine all ingredients in blender and mix for 2 minutes on high.
4. Strain through cone strainer and store in plastic squeeze bottle. Will hold for up to 3 days.
5. Serve with grilled meats such as seasoned pork or lamb.

 

The Degustateer gets ZAPPED!
 
The Degustateer gets ZAPPED!
by Susan Cashin


At the Omni Hotel on May 8th, along with many Austin wine lovers, I got ZAPPED! Rolling into town on one of their annual select city tours, the Zinfandel Advocates and Producers road show was the equivalent of a major rock festival á la wine! More than fifty producers showered attendees with the pleasures Zinfandel wines have to offer. 

To be honest, I was never a fan of Zinfandel. In my journey through the world of wines, I have steered clear of it. My palate leans towards classically styled wines that are into seduction rather than abduction. And yet how could a wine lover pass up the chance to have so many examples of one wine’s different styles, producers and winemakers (many hailing from top companies) in one spot at one time? Not I!

I decided to get there early for the press and industry tasting, with the idea of scouting out the selection in a leisurely manner. Pulling into the hotel parking garage at 1:45 p.m., I quickly saw that this was going to be less a trip to the symphony than a Rolling Stones concert in Zilker Park. The garage was already full, so I joined a line of others cruising for a spot.  Out of the elevators and into the lobby: there it was. The place was packed! Everyone in the Austin wine press and industry seemed present and tasting. A very long line had formed as an excited crowd waited to purchase tickets for the 5:00 p.m. public tasting. Producers and winemakers ran the gamut from scholarly looking and serious to tattooed bikers. And there were plenty of women winemakers, as is generally the case at large wine tastings. It's always an eclectic and colorful cavalcade, and today was no exception.

What was the deal? This was Zinfandel, the wine I'd disparaged until recently as the Coca-Cola of wines. I was prejudiced against Zins because the ones I'd sampled in my sommelier studies were too fruity, too alcoholic, sometimes too green and stemmy. They were brash and bitter. After a few tastes, my palate was shot for the evening. I felt hammered by the wine, rather than courted. So I closed my mind to Zins. With so many great wines out there, why bother with Zinfandels?

Then one day I was asked to help a friend, who was moving, go through his wine cellar. He had decided to downsize his collection by throwing a moving party featuring a wine tasting from his cellar. How sad to go through this collection and discard wines that were so far past their prime that some were dead!!

However, I noticed that he had several cases of 1990 & 1991 Ridge Zinfandels from Geyserville and Lytton Springs. I'd been to a small tasting of Ridge wines at Mirabelle’s earlier in the year, and there I'd met the gracious winemaker, Paul Draper. Tasting his recently released Zinfandels, I enjoyed and appreciated what his wines had to offer. I liked their restrained style—but I saw Draper’s wines as an anomaly. I still thought Zinfandel came on too strong. 

Even so, I took samples from my friend’s cellar and opened them. Three of us were present: cellar owner, a wine-knowledgeable friend and I.  We were all bowled over! There was a classic beauty to these wines, especially the Geyerserville. Paul Draper was right!  This wine had great potential to age. The Ridge wines were the favorites of the evening, even beating out a good Bordeaux.

I realized then that I had been judging all Zinfandels in their youth. I'd never before tasted a well-aged Zinfandel.  This was new.

Funny how wine always comes around to being analogous to life. With Zinfandel I was reminded of my relationship with my husband. I am positive that had I met him in his youth I would have run the other way. A risk taker, daredevil, wanderer without the foundation of wisdom and experience, in his youth he would have been bad and dangerous to know. But by the time I met him, maturity had softened the brassy edges without diminishing the sparkle.

That’s what I have discovered about Zinfandels. You have to leave aside these young wines. Zinfandel has taught me something new about wine. If a wine tells me who it is, I should believe it! After being ZAPPED I went on a binge researching Zinfandel, and thus I discovered what has come to be known as “America’s Grape.”

Zinfandel was originally thought to be the only native example of vitis vinifera found in North America. However, after investigation, Zinfandel's parentage was traced back to the eastern coast of the U.S., and linked to the Primitivo grape brought over by Italian immigrants. With migration to California in the mid-1800’s, Zinfandel found its perfect home in the cool climes of California’s coastal region. However, the hunt for Zin’s true parentage did not end there. DNA fingerprinting finally pointed to Primitivo (and thus Zinfandel) Croatian lineage, where the grape is known as Crljenak Kastelanski. Even before California’s population exploded with the gold rush in 1849, a grape-growing boom was in full swing, with Zinfandel leading the way in planted acreage.

 

As a variety, Zinfandel is a prolific producer and was even able to survive Prohibition, due to the admiration of the grape by immigrant home winemakers, who loved its robust, fruity, early and easy drinking ability as well as the mutability of the grape in the winemaking process. Zinfandel possesses a chameleon-like character and can be grown and vinified to produce a variety of wine styles ranging from dry to syrupy sweet. These styles reflect the cultural “melting pot” of America. There was never a traditional winemaking stance for this grape. In the past, styles and quality would swing wildly from year to year. For example, “The Me Decade” of the 1980’s became the decade of the White Zinfandel. Fruity, sweet cocktail wines perfectly suited the palates of a generation raised on soda pop. Today, Zins usually take a more reserved approach.

In Zin—The History and Mystery of Zinfandel, David Darlington writes:

This lack of a coherent Zinfandel tradition is, however, another thing that makes it a purely American wine. Like the country in which the vine found a home, the wine had no precedent and hence had to invent itself.  Makers of Californian Cabernet know that their yardstick stands in Bordeaux; producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay compete with the climate and soils of Burgundy; American Rieslings are judged by how well they evoke the valley of the Rhine. These standards have developed in Europe over several centuries, while the vines that produce such wines in the United States have scarcely been in the ground for decades. The world’s oldest Zinfandel vines, however, are growing in California. Its tradition-such as it exists after only a hundred years (roughly 125 now)-has evolved along with American winemaking and is still evolving. For better or worse, Zinfandel has been California’s native contribution to the international world of wine.

Zinfandel also mirrors the state of the American wine industry today. What are we trying to attempt in this “vinis” adventure? Rather than learning about our climates and geographies, and planting the appropriate grape varieties in the right spots, is our goal simply to please palates and tastes already programmed by beverages other than wine? As Darlington so aptly and writes, "the bottle of wine itself, (is) a point where culture and agriculture meet.”

So Zinfandel might be seen as a grand experiment. Perhaps that's why it has attracted so many advocates. It complements many traditional American foods, from the Thanksgiving turkey, to grilled/barbecued meats, to regional foods such as Cajun cuisines.

The ZAP winemakers are still the alchemists of the wine world. They continue to strive to unlock more of the magic from this grape. They constantly work with new formulas. Some, such as Paul Draper, love what American oak has to offer, but Draper also knows how to tame its wildness. Other vintners find the grape aggressive, adding too much tannin and overpowering the subtleties and finer qualities they want in the wine. Still others prefer utilizing French oak. The blending of some Carignan and Petit Syrah is another technique that winemakers such as Draper take. He believes this gives backbone and ageability to his wines. Finally, there are the purists--those who deplore overripe grapes and believe this leads to one-dimensional wines that lack complexity and the ability to age long and well. Trying to nail down a traditional winemaking process or style for the Zinfandel grape is almost impossible.

So Zinfandel is a tricky mistress. The grapes tend to ripen unevenly. Berries can range from green to almost raisinated on a single cluster, forcing a careful harvest. Notable producer Doug Nalle made the following comment in Darlington’s book, "I follow pH and taste as much as I follow degrees Brix now.” A winemaker needs to keep an eye on Zinfandel at every moment in the field to in the winery.

For all these reasons, Zinfandel deserves the title "America’s Grape." Although it Just it has no definitive style, at its best it can startle you with its bold and lust taste. 

Yes, Zinfandel is out there for you to discover, so try it. Get ZAPPED!

A lagniappe – a little something extra:

In the past few years, Zinfandel prices have skyrocketed, but they're still 'way below the Cabernets of California and Bordeaux. Their forward fruit posture and accessible tannins, in most cases, make them approachable for drinking right away. But remember that the best Zins should age well for at least five years and can continue even longer.
     
Be aware that Zins can be some of the most alcoholic wines. Paul Draper of Ridge believes you should remain in the 14-to-15 percent range in making a great Zinfandel. For this reason, be sure to serve food with the full-bodied red Zinfandels.
     
Watch out for the level of spiciness in the foods you pair with Zinfandel. With spicy foods, see that there’s plenty of forward fruit and don’t bring blockbuster alcohol levels to the match-up.
     
Zin can possess a fairly wide range of aromas and flavors. However I have found that, in general, a well-made Zin will have three major areas of aroma and flavors profiled - fruity, spicy and woody being primary. The characteristic fruit found on the nose and palate from Zins is in the class of “brambly berries” - blackberry, raspberry, and cranberry – and will range to dark cherries, plums and raisins. The spicy notes are mainly cinnamon, clove, allspice and black pepper. The woody profiles are those of cedar, oak, leather and vanilla. Caramelized and/or nutty profiles such as coffee, cocoa, chocolate, soy, walnut, chestnut, almonds and hazelnut are often described.
     
The best matches for medium to full-bodied red Zinfandels with spicy berry and pepper flavors are as follows:  Barbecued meats, chicken or pork (especially ribs), Barbecue sauce (sweet NOT spicy), grilled beef (best with a full-bodied Zin), cheese (esp. rich and/or strong) blue, feta, stilton, duck, lamb, sausage (esp. grilled and/or spicy), turkey (esp. roasted), and don’t forget that all-American favorite grilled hamburgers with cheese.
     
For lighter styled Zins to white Zinfandel, Chinese and Thai food make good partners. Barbecued chicken with sweet sauce, ham, and overly spicy pizzas.  Think picnic wine!  As Greg Harrington, one of my favorite Master Sommeliers once said.

"When people ask me if I like white Zinfandel, the geeky side of me says, 'It is the cheeseburger of the culinary world…but I love cheeseburgers!'"

 

 
Quest For Fire
 

Quest For Fire
by Susan Cashin




Ever wonder when, where and how the first barbecue took place? According to anthropologists, our ancestors (homo erectus) garnered mastery of fire about 500,000 years ago somewhere in what is now sub-Sahara Africa. How? We can only imagine. Was there a swiftly moving fire over the grasslands that left burned and charred animals in its wake—animals that our ancestors found and consumed? Or did a bolt of lighting strike a tree trunk, producing a glowing mass of charcoal? Perhaps, while our forbears were huddling for warmth in winter near a fire, a piece of raw meat accidentally dropped onto the flames, and the resulting carmelization, tenderizing and overall enhanced flavor of the meat sparked one of the most important Eureka moments for early man and civilization. (Maybe use this term since there were no light bulbs in prehistoric times. . .)         

Fast forward half a million years. Today, some form of grilling meats is found in every culture’s culinary tradition. In the past decade alone, grilling meat has taken on a life of its own. Cooking shows dedicated entirely to this cooking technique pepper the airways. An entire revolution in outdoor living has centered on the activity of grilling. The simple portable barbecue grill has morphed into entire outdoor kitchens, with state-of-the art gas grills, infra-red flash grills & rotisseries surrounded by luxurious pools and furnished outdoor rooms complete with widescreen digital TV’s and surround sound music systems.

But the beauty of grilling is that some of the most wonderful experiences use the most primitive means, in the most rustic places. Who can forget that first camp-out as a child, where the marshmallow was impaled on a stick and then grilled over the flickering fire until the blackened, bubbling puff of sugar was pulled off the stick and positioned between two Honey Graham crackers and half a Hershey’s chocolate bar? The marshmallow would be so hot that the chocolate became lava-like, and many a burned lip and tongue resulted.
     
Or remember the hamburgers and hotdogs grilled at school and church picnics and the family reunions. On special holidays, one member of the family was designated to get to the park early and stand guard over the cherished spot, usually the one closest to the water and music, and under the most beautiful tree. The cicadas sang their song as smoke rose from the grill pit and carried the smell of summer across the park. The scent touched the primordial regions of the brain and lured people to the communal table.
     
So grilling is in our souls, our very DNA. Once relegated mainly to summertime and the outdoors, grilling has invaded all seasons, situations and places. It has been elevated to an art from - sometimes intimidating the novice. But grilling is a basic skill that anyone can learn and master. A few wonderful resources are available to turn you into the Grilling King or Queen of the neighborhood. One of the best is The Barbecue Bible by Steven Raichlen, which contains everything you ever wanted to know about grilling.Raichlen spent three years, traveled to 25 countries and compiled over 500 grilling recipes in order to write this go-to guide to all grilling.
     

Also, Cook’s Illustrated magazine has a Web site chock full of information about cooking, ingredients and product research. This Web site requires a paid membership, but the price is reasonable because it saves time, trouble and money. When reading recipes, be sure to note the country and region of the recipe, and look to wines from those country and regions to match to the recipe. Grilling recipes usually reflect the heart, soul and foundation of a region's culinary tradition, and the wines from that particular region usually will be a good match. However, in the recipes I provide in this article, I decided to think outside of the bottle and provide some alternative pairings with the menu.
     
Now let’s get down to the meat of the matter. You can grill anything - from apples to zucchini! However, when anyone says, “Let’s barbecue or grill something tonight!” eggplant is not the first thing that comes to mind. It’s meat--beef, chicken, pork and fish—that springs to mind. Recipes, styles, rubs, and marinades are too numerous to list, but we'll take a look at some unusual choices to add to your grilling repertoire.
     
We recommend obtaining local meat from farmers’ markets and regional specialty meat shops. Look for meats from animals that were grass-fed and raised in sustainable and humane conditions. We are fortunate here in central Texas to have access to a wide range of locally and regionally grown meat products such as Berkshire pork, grass-fed lamb, Longhorn beef, bison, and wild boar, antelope and deer. One caveat on grilling grass-fed meats is that they tend to be leaner and require 30 percent less cooking time, on average. Care and practice are required, but the results are well worth the added effort.  Scientific studies are showing that animals raised utilizing organic and sustainable methods are lower in cholesterol and bad fats, and that they contain substances that are proving to be beneficial to our health. 
     
The flavors these unique meats impart bring a new taste experience to our table. Try some grass-fed lamb from Loncito’s Grass-Fed Lamb. You’ll love the Berkshire pork from Peach Creek Farm. Broken Arrow Ranch in Ingram, Texas, can ship wild boar, antelope, and axis deer to your doorstep. (See Sidebar for contact information.) I recently tried an antelope burger from Broken Arrow Ranch and the flavor was amazing. I wished for a superb Pinotage from Bon Courage Estate in South Africa, or a Geyserville Zinfandel from Ridge.
     
Experimenting with grilling different foods adds new notes to the symphony of the palate. New food and wine partnerships are there to be discovered. Simple grilled shrimp, with a crisp New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, will set the stage for a grilled feast.  Follow with some spicy shrimp and/or sausage and bring a Gewürztraminer or Alsatian Riesling to the dance floor. If you decide on a sweet and sour sauce on your shrimp, try a lovely Chenin Blanc from South Africa.

Grilling is fast, easy and simple. In these hot months you will save on the air-conditioning bills by not heating up the kitchen and cleanup is minimal. But most of all, the grill was our first table. Academics argue that we became socialized beings, developed language and a sense of community at the cooking fire. There are a few regions of the world that claim the title of the cradle of civilization and those that claim to have saved civilization. But man’s first barbecue, man’s discovery of how to grill, was the forge upon which civilization was created.


Mesolithic to Modern Menu – A Neanderthal could grill this feast


Appetizer
Simple Lemon/Lime Shrimp

2 lbs. Jumbo Shrimp
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3 teaspoons coarse sea salt
3 teaspoons freshly ground white pepper
1 large, juicy lime

  1. Preheat grill to high.
  2. Rinse shrimp, blot dry, and place in glass dish and sprinkle w/lemon juice and 1 teaspoon each of salt and pepper.
  3. Cut lime into 4 wedges. Place each wedge in small shallow bowl or dish and ½ tsp. of salt on one side of the lime and a ½ tsp. of pepper on the other.
  4. Oil grill grate and grill shrimp in their shells until the flesh is firm and pink (about 2 minutes per side. Use tongs to turn.
  5. Place shrimp on serving plates.  Squeeze lime over salt and pepper in bowl and mix together. Peel shrimp, dip into lime mixture and enjoy.

Wine suggestion: New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough

Main Course
South Texas Antelope Burgers

  1. Set grill heat to medium
  2. Oil grate so antelope patties won’t stick. Patties contain 15% beef to add some much needed fat. Be sure not to overcook patties. Cook so that patties are still pink inside. Over cooking with produce a dry burger.
  3. Lightly butter burger buns and grill just prior to antelope burgers being done.
  4. Have plate of sliced Texas 1014Y onions (if in season), sliced tomatoes, sliced cheddar cheese (preferably Brazos Valley Cheese), and lettuce leaves ready and waiting accompanied by mustard and mayo if you like.

Wine suggestions: A Geyserville Zinfandel from Ridge for a real treat! If you can find a well-crafted Pinotage from South Africa give it a whirl. And never forget that beer is a fantastic choice. My favorite for summer is the Rio Blanco Pale Ale from Real Ale Brewing Company.

Grilled Corn accompanied with Mixed Grilled Veggies

  1. Have grill on high heat
  2. Make spiced butter.  Place 1 stick salted butter, 3 tablespoons cilantro, 1 clove garlic, two whole chopped scallions, and ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper into food processor.  Pulse until mixture is smooth and spreadable.
  3. Take 8 ears of whole corn and shuck.
  4. Place ears on oiled grill grate, turn with tongs and grill for 8 to 12 minutes and brush with butter spread occasionally.
  5. Cut and slice other veggies i.e. summer squash, bell peppers (green, red, yellow), zucchini, carrots and grill along with corn.  It helps to have a grilling veggie basket.  Brush veggies also with spiced butter mixture.

Dessert
Banana Rama
Prepare the bananas at least 3 hours in advance.

  1. Take 4 slightly green bananas.
  2.  Peel and grill on oiled grated. Turn with tongs until pleasantly browned all over about 6 to 8 minutes.  Remove from grill and slice on the diagonal into bite-sized pieces.
  3. Have already prepared and cooled the marinade.  ½ cup maple syrup, ¼ cup dark rum, 1/8 cup of sugar, ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon, 1/8 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg, 1/8 tsp. ground cardamom.  Combine ingredients and heat gently, do not boil, until sugar is dissolved.  Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
  4. Place hot grilled bananas into marinade. Let cool to room temperature, cover and marinate in refrigerator for 3 hours.
  5. Place favorite vanilla ice cream (Blue Bell Homemade Vanilla) in dessert bowls. Spoon bananas with some marinade over the ice cream. Sprinkle with toasted coconut, and nuts of choice (esp. macadamia or almonds).

Wine suggestion: Ice wine – Look to Canadian ice wines. Great values and wonderful flavor profiles. Inniskillin and Peller are recommended producers.

 

For beef, bison, lamb, chicken, pork, cheese, tomatoes and other vegetables visit:

The Austin Farmers’ Market Downtown

4th & Guadalupe
Every Saturday (rain or shine)
9AM – 2PM

The Austin Farmers’ Market at the Triangle
North Lamar and Guadalupe
Every Wednesday evening (rain or shine)
4PM-8PM
Visit the website:  www.austinfarmersmarket.org

Broken Arrow Ranch
3296 Junction Highway
Ingram, TX 78025
www.brokenarrowranch.com

 
Gourmet on the Texas Gulf Coast
 

Gourmet on the Texas Gulf Coast
by Amy E. Lemen

It’s that time of year when our thoughts turn to vacations, especially on a beach. With an easy commute of four to six hours, depending on your destination, a beach weekend away from Austin is the ideal getaway.

But there’s much more than fried food (although there’s certainly something to be said for that!) to scarf down on the Texas Gulf coast. Now, beachgoing vacationers can find the same gourmet food they’re used to at places like Central Market and Whole Foods Market at specialty gourmet grocery stores popping up all over the Texas coast. These fine food havens are featuring specialty foods, fine wines, and even catering services.

And why not? It’s all about meeting demand, often those who can well afford it. The real estate boom alone from about-to-retire Boomers and those investing in real estate on the coast has created a demand for the same comforts of home – including the ability to shop for gourmet goodies.

Consider that, in 2005, second home purchases accounted for 40 percent of all sales, according to the National Association of Realtors – and many of those were on or near the water. Research shows that resort and vacation areas tend to attract second homebuyers who don't need to be near jobs and schools.

Of course, those same homeowners still want the convenience of a Central Market or a Whole Foods Market with their artisan cheeses, freshly baked breads and knowledgeable food and wine staff.

Luckily, vacationers won’t have to look too far to find something other than cheap white zinfandel for beachside quaffing – or raid the wine cellar before heading southward. Enterprising foodies and entrepreneurs are recognizing the need for something a little more upscale and are beginning to serve up style along the Texas coast.

Take Veste, which opened a few months ago on Padre Boulevard in South Padre Island. Offering fine food to-go, ranging from Eggplant Napoleon to comfort food like lasagna and meat loaf, it’s proven a popular hangout and already has its share of regulars – both full-time islanders and those with second homes. A large selection of wines and gourmet goods (think extra-dark chocolate truffles, free trade coffee beans, gourmet pasta sauces and olive oils, and more); frequent tastings and events; artisanal cheeses; homemade breads; and gourmet picnic baskets for al fresco dining on the beach – or at home – have made Veste a must-stop for foodies.

In Galveston, Maceo Spice & Import Company (2501 Market; 409-763-3331) serves a large selection of muffalettas, plus fine imported and specialty foods. But it’s the muffalettas that are the real story here. Italian immigrant Tony Lovi created the famed muffaletta in the French Quarter of New Orleans in 1901. A tantalizing blend of fine Italian salami, ham, provolone cheese in a freshly baked Italian bread round, topped with the olive dressing that keeps true fans coming back for more.

Long story short, in 1926, eight-year-old Rosario Maceo helped his Uncle Tony make those muffalettas in the French Quarter, selling them on street corners. Now, Rosario’s son, Ronnie, runs the store, but Rosario’s usually there, too, making a special muffaletta to order and still getting up each morning to make the muffalettas made famous by Uncle Tony.
Besides the muffalettas, Maceo’s also has a retail store featuring a line of fine imported and specialty foods, such as olive oils, olives, pasta, meats and cheeses, capers, coffee and tea, plus hard-to-find-at-the-beach specialty food items. Maceo’s also offers both catering and gift basket services to suit. Even better, if you suddenly develop a craving for one of Maceo’s muffalettas – and you’re home in Austin – they’ll deliver it to your door.

Also in Galveston, you’ll find the longest running retail store on The Strand. The Old Strand Emporium (2112 Strand; 409-515-0715) specializes in Texas foods and gifts, offering fresh fudge, a deli, cold drinks and The Strand's largest assortment of imported and domestic beers and Texas wines.



Offering eclectic menus that change regularly, The Market on Avenue L (1528 Avenue L at 16th Street, Strand Historic District, 409-621-1100) is beachgoer’s source for beach gourmet off the beach.

Dubbed an “upscale boutique market catering” with delivery, take-out or dine-in options and the brainchild of well-known Houston caterer Jim Manning, The Market on Avenue L features local organic produce on its menu, artisan cheese, grass-fed meats and fresh bakery selections. Choose from food-to-go, catering, on-site dining and a selection of specialty retail items like spices, wine, hard-to-find ingredients and more.

Manning is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance, the Slow Food Movement, and is a member of the Chef's Advisory Board for Recipe for Success' Chefs in Schools Program. He’s also been recognized in My Table magazine and in The Houston Press as one of Houston's top caterers and as Caterer of the Year. In any case, Manning’s food philosophy will surely resonate with all food and wine fans.

“Food should be visually and gastronomically enticing, always impeccably fresh and always real,” he says on the market’s website. “Customers will enjoy the best quality menu items available and a convenience concept that’s devoted to the Galveston Island lifestyle.”

After all, gourmet in a French five-star restaurant (and as artfully portrayed in the newest children’s – and foodie parents’ – movie Ratatouille, which had none other than Thomas Keller of French Laundry fame as the movie’s consultant) is a bit different scenario than simply wanting great food that may occasionally get sand in it. And that, of course, is part of the charm.


Although the market was still awaiting its liquor license (as of July 2007), the market encourages patrons to bring in their own wine (or beer). A $10 corkage fee applies – for the wine, that is – unless you’re toting in a vintage corked beer like Edition vintage 2005 Belgian strong pale ale with that homemade pimiento cheese, or the duck comfit and chicken liver palate – two of the sample offerings on Avenue L’s summer 2007 menu.

Not too far away in Port Aransas, Liquid Town was founded in 1951 as a family-owned and operated business in Corpus Christi and, since its beginning, both the family and the business have experienced considerable growth. With eight locations in the area, all are locally owned and managed by the same family.

Find your favorite spirits, plus a huge wine selection, fine cigars, kegs for that party on the beach, custom-designed gift baskets for the client you neglected to inform of your impending beach vacation, and complete party planning services – in the event that you’d rather just, well, lay on the beach with the latest Dean Koontz novel.

In the Rockport-Fulton area, known for its fishing, it’s no surprise that Alby's Seafood Po-Boys (3402 Hwy 35 North, Fulton, 361-729-1521) is the place to go for the best from the Gulf coast. A family-owned operation for the last 24 years, their goal is to “bring the Rockport/Fulton area the freshest seafood available.”

“My mission is to use my many culinary experiences to bring the same fresh seafood to you as traditional Gulf Coast fare,” says Hope Godinich, chef and Alby family descendant. “All our seafood is hand-breaded and cooked to order using the finest ingredients available.”

Try the mahi, grouper, amberjack, tuna, snapper, flounder and black drum – all are fresh fish regulars at Alby’s. They also carry premium quality farm-raised catfish and redfish, plus a variety of specialty items such as blue crab meat (jumbo, regular lump, claw meat and crab fingers), as well as fresh Gulf oysters, and ready-to-cook items like stuffed crab, shrimp, jalapenos, crab cakes, frog legs and much more.

No matter where you are on the Texas gulf coast, when that craving for gourmet food hits – and you don’t mind a little sand with that Pouilly Fuisse – there’s clearly no shortage of where to find it. And that’s more than a welcome addition.
 
Summer Fruit Drinks
 

Summer Fruit Drinks
by Sam Armstrong




With the tyrannical summer heat preparing to bully all but the toughest Texans, delightful Lone-Star state produce and vinicultural bounties combine to create the perfect recipe for keeping summer at bay. Two of Western Europe’s most popular traditional beverages - the Spanish Sangria and the Italian Bellini - present the perfect opportunities to showcase delicious Texas produce such as Fredericksburg peaches, Poteet strawberries, and Rio Grande Valley oranges.

According to Jane Nickles, Austin Wine Educator and author of WineSpeak 101, she can hardly get ten minutes into her introductory wine course before someone asks about Sangria. In her sparkling wine course, everyone wants her to serve Mimosas.

“Miss Jane,” as her students call her, says she is always happy to teach about Sangria, a delicious Spanish wine punch. Punch made from wine is a long tradition in Europe, having been traced back to the “Claret Cup Punch” popular in England in the 1700’s.  This type of beverage is perhaps akin to our “Vodka in the Punch Bowl” tradition here in the states.  In other words, it's an inexpensive party drink that delivers a good dose of alcohol to get party guests.

Traditional Sangria is a red wine punch, made with Red Rioja or a similar dry, Spanish red wine. However, in Penedes, a sparkling version of Sangria is made with Cava.  In the south of Spain, Sangria is called zurra, and is made with peaches and nectarines – of which delicious Texas varieties abound this time of year. The crowd-pleasing punch can also be made with white wine, at which point it becomes 'Sangria Blanco.'

Sangria was introduced to the U.S. at the 1964 World’s Fair in New York City, where it was an instant hit. More than thirty years later it remains popular.  Nickles shared her favorite recipe for traditional Sangria. "But be careful," she warns. "In the finest 'punch bowl' tradition, it packs an alcoholic wallop, belied by its fruity sweet flavor." 

Jane Nickles’ Traditional Sangria

Ingredients:1 Bottle Red Rioja or other
Dry Red Wine from Spain

  • ½ Cup Sugar
  • 1 Cup Brandy
  • 1 Orange
  • 1 Lemon
  • 1 Apple
  • 1 Quart Sparkling Water
  • 10 Strawberries, sliced  
  • Fresh Fruit for Garnish
Method:  Slice the orange and lemons into thin rounds.  Remove the core from the apple and slice into thin wedges.  Mix the sliced fruit with the sugar and let sit overnight. The next morning, add the brandy and the red wine.  When ready to serve, add the sparkling water and sliced strawberries.  Serve over ice with an outrageous garnish of fresh fruit.

As for sparkling wine, Miss Jane says she hardly ever starts a bubbly class without someone's enthusiastically expressing their love of that common brunch staple, the Mimosa.  While she is happy talk about Mimosas, and offer a simple recipe (one part Orange Juice to two parts bubbly), she does warn students not to “waste” their good Champagne or Sparkling Wine in a Mimosa. She prefers a unique alternative for joining sweet fruits with sparkling wine. “If you want a really good cocktail made with sparkling wine," she says, “I will talk you into a love affair with the Bellini.”

From the end of May through the crippling heat of late August, Texas stone fruit (peaches, apricots and nectarines) are at their most delicious and readily available to combat the scorching temperatures.  Nature’s timing makes the warmer months the perfect time to embrace the true Bellini - a revitalizing drink made with Prosseco and Peach Puree. Some compare the drink to a Mimosa, but according to Miss Jane, that's like comparing apples and oranges, or, more precisely, peaches and oranges. What I'm saying is, there is no comparison. 

The Bellini was invented in 1948 at Harry's Bar in Venice, Italy. Giuseppe Cipriani was the head bartender at the time, and had a yen for Italian white peaches. He worked long and hard trying to develop a perfect cocktail which would use the peaches as a base. Eventually he tried the simple combination of pureed white peaches and a sparkling Prosecco, and the Bellini was born.

According to Nickles, some Bellini recipes might call for Peach Schnapps, Peach Nectar, or other ingredients.  However, a real Bellini is made from fresh white peaches (from Fredericksburg, for example), peeled and pureed to a smooth consistency. 

“If you must, you can substitute any type of peaches for the white peaches, and you’ll still have a refreshing drink,” Nickles says. “But don’t call it a Bellini!”  (How about Peachini?) 

“Serve any time of day for a refreshing, cool drink,” says Nickles, “I guarantee you will feel ten degrees cooler upon your first sip.”

Here is the original Bellini Recipe.

The Bellini
  • 1 Ounce Fresh White Peach Puree, made from fresh, peeled white peaches
  • 5 Ounces Prosseco
Pour peach puree into a fluted glass, then top with the Prosseco.  The peach puree with foam up a bit, so take care when adding the Prosseco.